Orecchiette with Octopus Ragù and Chickpea Purée

Literally translating to “burnt grain,” grano arso is thought to refer to what was left behind after the stubble of harvested wheat fields had been burnt off, often gathered by poor farmers before the next crop was planted. Store-bought pasta will suffice, and you can find dried grano arso orecchiette in specialty Italian food shops.

D’Onghia pairs the pasta with indulgent chunks of octopus instead of the traditional broccoli rabe.

For the chickpea purée:

• 2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water for 24 hours, then drained
• 1 medium carrot, coarsely chopped
• 1 medium celery stalk, coarsely chopped
• 1 medium yellow onion, coarsely chopped
• 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt

For the octopus ragù:

• 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
• 1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
• 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
• 10 oz. octopus tentacles, cut into 1⁄2-in. pieces
• 2 cups cherry tomatoes
• 1 cup fish stock

For the pasta:

• Kosher salt
• 1 lb. uncooked orecchiette, preferably grano arso

Instructions

• Make the chickpea purée: To a medium pot, add the chickpeas, carrot, celery, and onion and enough water to cover by 2 inches. Turn the heat to high to bring to a boil, then turn down to simmer until the chickpeas are very soft, about 2 hours.
• Meanwhile, make the octopus ragù: To a large pot over medium heat, add the oil, carrot, celery, and onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the octopus, tomatoes, and fish stock, turn the heat to simmer, cover, and cook until the octopus is tender, about 1 hour.
• Transfer the chickpeas along with their cooking liquid to a food processor. Add the oil and pulse until smooth. Season to taste with salt.
• Make the pasta: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the orecchiette, stirring occasionally, until al dente, 8–10 minutes. Strain the pasta, then transfer to the pot of ragù. Stir to coat and remove from the heat.
• Divide the chickpea purée evenly among 4–6 pasta bowls, top with the orecchiette, and serve warm.