Sailing in Sciacca, amid declining wine consumption and alternative options
On the terrace of the Domus Maris in Sciacca—a hotel housed in a noble palace in the historic center, near the port—the tables at the Vela Restaurant reflect an ongoing evolution in wine and beverage consumption in general, with a particular focus on young people.
In the dining room, Alice Bressan oversees service as maître d', and Valerio Fini, sommelier and restaurant manager, fills the glasses. He began his career in Abruzzo, moving on to London, Switzerland, and the two-Michelin-starred Agli Amici di Godia, where he worked with Emanuele and Michela Scarello. His philosophy is based on "the 5Cs: calm, cuisine, character, charm, and courtesy," which he still considers his work ethic. In the kitchen, Francesco Crimi, born in 1991 and trained at Alma, arrived in Sciacca in 2024 after stints in Turin and Brussels (at a 5-star restaurant), Sestriere, and then Alto Adige. Alongside him, Giada Bressan manages the pastry shop (after stints at Agli Amici di Udine).
Alice, Giada, Francesco, and Valerio, a couple, have decided to put down roots in a city that is not their own, but which they have chosen with conviction.
Regarding wine consumption, Fini explains that he's seen a sharp decline recently compared to a few years ago, but this year is showing a clear recovery compared to last year. He doesn't notice any differences between summer and winter, except for a slight preference for ordering a bottle during the warmer months instead of a glass, although it also depends greatly on who's sitting at the table. "Since I work a lot with foreign clients, the most frequent request is for local wines, and for this reason the wine list is made up of about sixty percent Sicilian wines, with the remainder being Italian and a few foreign wines."
Fini explains that he didn't view this change in demand as a limitation, but rather as a stimulus to better understand the customer and offer something more, starting from the idea that the choice of bottle enhances the work done on the menu, while the glass allows for a more open dialogue during service, allowing the customer to drink a different wine with each course. "I recently remember a table of three who ordered three different dishes à la carte, each with a different glass. It was challenging for me to propose and meet each of their expectations, but I consider it the most stimulating type of work to do in a restaurant today, also because it helps foreign guests get to know the Sicilian region."
Compared to young people's current attitude toward wine, he certainly perceives a greater focus on aperitifs and cocktails than on wine. "Those who approach wine often do so out of habit rather than real knowledge," he clarifies, "for example, asking for a sparkling wine because they're used to that type of product." From this observation, the Marsalino was born at Vela, a cocktail that uses Marsala as a base, designed specifically to introduce wine to those who would never choose it on its own, and which sometimes leads those who taste it to stop and wonder if they might actually like it even outside of the cocktail.
Then there's sake, a discovery that came to Valerio Fini's world by chance. He initially tried it out of professional curiosity at a dinner with friends, served hot, and was struck by its digestive effect. At Vela, sake is always served by the glass, precisely to continue the dialogue with guests about building their own personal journey at the table.
Among the alcohol-free options, Vela offers Feral's fermented drinks, with the addition of natural botanicals—from white beetroot to hops. The menu also includes non-alcoholic cocktails, such as the Vista Mare, made with non-alcoholic gin and seaweed, with the acidity of lemon and the saltiness of salicornia, shaken to order.
When demand permits, the restaurant also offers mixed menus that alternate a drink, a non-alcoholic beverage, and an alcoholic wine during the same meal. This versatility, Fini believes, is the best way to adapt to the needs of each individual, whether a young diner seeking a cocktail or a regular looking to discover something new.
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