To restore meaning to Mexican gastronomic heritage

The term allows for very different interpretations: a spontaneous conversation at a tamale stand is not the same as a university colloquium, where critical thinking is essential for argumentation.

So much effort has been put into the practical application of the concept of heritage preservation that its analysis becomes relativistic, but all indications are that good intentions are often counterproductive. Fifteen years after the term emerged as the ultimate expression of some people's struggles and synonymous with something inherently good, few know what it's for. It's a concept that disturbs both the individual and society, and which today permeates numerous gastronomic initiatives. Few recognize its depth, and many exploit it for economic, political, or personal gain. Worldly interests are inherent in the contemporary gastronomic ecosystem.

We have all benefited from events that extol the virtues of a Mexican gastronomy increasingly disconnected from those who possess this cultural heritage. What matters is increasing media impact through eye-catching productions, ensuring that traditional cooks remain the center of attention, but never the true focus. These folkloric spectacles pervert the use of traditions and contemporary Mexican identity. We are all complicit.

At events celebrating traditional cuisine, traditional cooks still lack a prominent place and are treated with a disdain that reveals the deep-rooted classism and racism prevalent in Mexico. These are two of the most profound ills of a society attempting to reinvent itself despite its own shortcomings. Eradicating them requires acknowledging the deficiencies left behind by centuries of oppression against the communities now gaining visibility. Indigenous peoples, now proudly showcased, were until very recently scorned and relegated to the margins as examples of a simplistic version of Mexican culture. Reconciliation with the Indigenous and mestizo past is an obligation for those who have turned cooking into an increasingly lucrative business. Preserving this heritage also means establishing commercial boundaries, curbing the gentrification of historic centers, and not turning into a spectacle those who naively offer their services to those who see traditional cuisine as an engine of success and wealth.

Although the term may seem somewhat detached from reality, it is undeniable that, regardless of socioeconomic status, place of residence, or interests related to its use, the concept of "heritage" is deeply rooted in the collective unconscious and influences decisions and actions. Enough years have passed to acknowledge the mistakes made and accept that the responsibility for improving the situation lies with young and innovative proposals, not with the same old faces. It seems that the new Mexican vision is only just beginning.