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The Dining Room
By Kenji Haruna, The Grand Tour desk3d agoLebanon3 min read
Armenian cuisine with a Middle Eastern twist, according to Agassi Serobyan of VAGA Dubai

Armenian cuisine with a Middle Eastern twist, according to Agassi Serobyan of VAGA Dubai

Agassi Serobyan, general manager of VAGA Dubai, explains what challenges Armenian fusion faces in a market dominated by Levantine and Persian Gulf cuisines.

Armenian cuisine, deeply rooted in spices, memories, and centuries-old traditions, is experiencing a resurgence that contemporary culinary techniques enhance without sacrificing authenticity. This reinterpretation doesn't seek to dilute or Westernize it, but rather to honor the cultural heritage with innovative approaches. At VAGA, smoked dolmas are served with roasted eggplant purée and sous-vide beef with ancestral spice blends, while imam bayildi is reimagined with a whipped yogurt emulsion.

Serobyan explains that they operate in a city where traditional cuisine is deeply rooted: Levantine mezze, biryani, and burrata are what people know and what tends to be successful. Armenian cuisine remains largely uncharted territory for many diners in the region, and this lack of familiarity can be an obstacle, especially in fine dining. Even so, they see it as an opportunity: when the diner takes the first bite and connects with the depth of flavor, the history it evokes, and the feeling of home, the experience opens up completely.

International visitors are often adventurers seeking authenticity with a unique twist, wanting to experience the Silk Road firsthand, not just read about it. Locals, on the other hand, can be more reserved and attached to tradition. For the restaurant, the greatest honor is when a local diner returns with friends and remarks that the food reminds them of home, which often creates a deeper connection.

VAGA doesn't aspire to be just another Middle Eastern restaurant. Its aim is to completely redefine the dining experience with an Armenian-Eastern fusion where each dish has deep roots but is expressed with a modern aesthetic. The food is accompanied by stories, and the presentation, ingredients, and ambiance are designed to take diners beyond the conventional.

According to Serobyan, the mission is to transform the global perception of Armenian and Middle Eastern cuisine. These traditions, forged by empires, migrations, and trade, are rich in technique, culture, and history, yet remain underrepresented on the international stage. To change this, the restaurant organizes immersive workshops, collaborations with chefs, short-term creative events, and cultural activities.

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