Gelato Collection (Barcelona), Albert Adrià's ecosystem in an ice cream
It has been 340 years since the Sicilian Procopio Cutò opened Café Procope in Paris, an establishment dedicated to sorbets, coffee, and ice cream.
When Albert Adrià and Alfredo Machado began to conceive their ice cream shop, they found their main source of inspiration in luxury perfumeries. Not only in the interior design and presentation, but also in their conceptual framework.
Each flavor would have a number, and each number, a combination. The correspondence between the two disciplines goes beyond mere aesthetics. Behind every perfume, as behind every ice cream, there is a formula whose harmony depends on a precise balance.
Ice cream is composed of water, fat, protein, air, and sugar—which, in this case, ranges from 18-23%—as well as stabilizers and emulsifiers. The cold temperature influences the perception of aromas and texture; sugar regulates the freezing point; stabilizers control the water content and limit ice crystal formation; emulsifiers promote fat integration; and air alters the volume and consistency.
Any alteration, however small, modifies the whole and forces us to rehearse, record, correct and start again.
"Ice cream is the result of quality ingredients and a balance between solids and liquids that gives it a unique texture, which essentially represents 50% of the ice cream. Also, in our case, it is important that there is no excess of sugar," explains Albert Adrià.
Along with this meticulous formulation, Adrià has opted to forgo artificial flavorings. In Gelato Collection, everything must taste as it should and is available at its proper time of year, all freshly churned daily. With their sorbets and fruit ice creams, they also avoid industrial purees, prioritizing fresh fruit.
Following this seasonal premise, in the heart of summer we find No. 33 in the collection, made with apricot, or No. 55, with fresh cherry. This logic means that other more seasonal flavors, such as mandarin, sweet potato, or Elche pomegranate, remain on hold within their extensive catalog.
The menu is organized into four easily recognizable categories: traditional, seasonal, signature, and for adults. In the latter, the language of cocktails is translated into the frozen realm, featuring combinations such as elderflower and St. Germain or margarita.
If there's one thing that has characterized the career of this chef from L'Hospitalet de Llobregat, it's his commitment to bringing creativity to every aspect of his work. It's no surprise, then, to find some less predictable combinations here as well, such as No. 18, with mango and green curry, or No. 96, with black miso and coffee.
From the collaboration with Àngel Velasco, general manager of Torrons Vicens and partner of Gelato, flavors such as the Agramunt nougat ice cream are born, listed as number 1 in the collection.
For the less adventurous, or for unsuspecting passersby who wander into the shop from La Rambla, there are also familiar options, such as Madagascar vanilla, Iranian green pistachio, or dulce de leche. These are common flavors that, nevertheless, maintain the commitment to using high-quality ingredients.
Another key aspect of Gelato Collection is the serving temperature. This may seem obvious, but it's crucial for the gelato to achieve the right texture and fully develop its aromas. Unlike the usual array of toppings found in other gelato shops, they forgo them, except for occasional additions like lime or mandarin zest.
Under the motto "Slow-cooked ice creams and sorbets," Gelato Collection encapsulates much of its concept. It's an exercise in reductionism, whereby Albert Adrià and Alfredo Machado concentrate their technical and creative expertise on an everyday product, albeit one considerably more complex than it appears. Starting at €3.80, this concept, while often driven by cravings, offers the advice of the staff when combining flavors.
