Ancient Grain in Venaria Reale, Review: The Gourmet Pizza That Remains in the Province
At a time when gourmet pizza seems to be in decline, if not already gone, and when even all the hype surrounding so-called ancient grains has been significantly scaled down, the Grano Antico pizzeria in Venaria Reale (Turin) is reclaiming its name and identity as a gourmet pizzeria, complete with a definition.
Pizzeria Grano Antico in Venaria Reale near Turin
The Grano Antico pizzeria is located in a fairly central area of Venaria Reale, a town just outside Turin. Customers are greeted by a huge outdoor terrace, and inside there are two other rooms, the upper one being the largest. The restaurant seats over two hundred people in total, and the devil always wonders about the compatibility between quality and quantity—that is, family-sized tables and gourmet leavened dishes.
The environment is pleasant and well-kept, decorated with photos of scenes of peasant life with some artistic pretensions.
The Ancient Grain Menu
The Grano Antico pizzeria's menu confirms this dual nature, this desire to blend chic and pop. Appetizers include the usual montanarine (fried pizzas), but with both classic and sophisticated toppings, and then range from the ultra-traditional (farinata, croquettes, supplì) to the sophisticated (croquetas de hamon iberico, fried shiitake mushrooms, and cheese).
The pizzeria also offers a wide range of options: there are four types of dough/presentation. On one side, the Cloud with Venere rice (6 pizzas), the Scrocchiarella with corn (4) and the Pala alla romana (4). On the other side, classic pizza (22). The toppings range from simple to truly gourmet, with a preference for Spanish ham and a tendency towards seasonal products.
The prices are quite high: after the marinara and margherita at 7 and 8 euros respectively, all the other pizzas are over 10 and even quite a bit, with peaks up to 25, 28 euros.
The beverage selection could be improved: we have a local craft brewery on tap and something else in bottles, and two and a half wine labels.
Ancient grains, pizzas and appetizers
Farinata, a staple in every pizzeria here in the Turin area, is of irregular thickness: when thin and well-cooked, it's a delight to eat. The Iberian ham croquettes are delicious, though more cheesy than prosciutto-like.
Regarding ancient grain pizzas, it's worth repeating what we've often observed about pizzerias that straddle the line between gourmet and ordinary. While the doughs and combinations of the experimental pizzas are interesting, even if (or precisely because) they're imperfect and can be improved, the regular pizzas, on the other hand, are bland and anonymous, well below average.
The Venere rice cloud (the latter flour, fortunately, is more of an idea than a feeling) is tall and generously topped. The interior is soft, not so much airy as (pleasantly) bready. The pizza called Asparagina features two consistencies of asparagus, fried and creamed, plus a saffron cream and Fassona beef tartare. The flavors are well-balanced, yet still quite delicate.
The Roman pizza in pala is the best in terms of dough, with an excellent balance between softness and crunchiness, even though it's not very thick. The Aceto su tela topping is an explosion of deliciousness: San Daniele prosciutto, Andria burrata, confit cherry tomatoes, and balsamic vinegar. All in all, this is the best choice.
The opinion, in short
An interesting pizzeria on the outskirts of Turin, somewhat ambiguous in its approach between family-friendly and gourmet. The latter is worth a try (and the price is not cheap). The staff is very friendly, even under pressure.