White Bean Anchoïade

Brioza and his team fry slabs of sourdough bread in olive oil before spackling them with the stuff, then topping the toasts with long-cooked broccolini, orange zest, and a few more whole, plump anchovies for good measure. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with foil and add the chicken bones.

To a large pot over medium-high heat, add the roasted bones, the chicken, and enough cool water to cover the chicken by 3 inches. Bring to a boil, skimming off and discarding any froth that forms along the surface.

Turn the heat to medium-low, add the parsley, salt, parsnips, bay leaves, carrots, celery, onions, fennel, and kombu, and simmer until the stock turns a deep golden color, 4–6 hours. Using tongs, transfer the chicken to a large bowl and allow to cool slightly.

In a fine-mesh sieve set over another large pot, strain the stock, reserving the parsnips, carrots, celery, and fennel and discarding all the other solids. Transfer the vegetables to an airtight container, allow to cool to room temperature, and refrigerate.

Pick the meat from the chicken, discarding the skin and bones, transfer to an airtight container, and refrigerate. Allow the stock to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until the fat solidifies on the surface, 2–24 hours.

Skim off the chicken fat and set aside for the matzo balls. (You should have ¼ cup of fat. If you have less, supplement it with store-bought schmaltz or olive or vegetable oil.) In a large bowl, stir together matzo meal, cilantro, parsley, salt, black pepper, ginger, eggs, the reserved chicken fat, and ¼ cup of the stock.

Fill a large pot halfway with lightly salted water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. With wet hands, gently divide the matzo mixture into eight 3-tablespoon portions. Roll into balls, gently dropping them into the boiling water as you go. (Do not pack the dough tightly or the balls will not puff as they cook.) Turn the heat to medium-low, cover with a lid, and simmer until the matzo balls grow, float to the surface, and are evenly cooked through, about 25 minutes.

To test if they’re ready, use a spoon to remove one matzo ball and cut it in half; it should be the same color throughout and have a consistent light texture. Meanwhile, return the stock to the stove and turn the heat to medium-low.

Shred the reserved chicken into bite-size pieces, then add to the pot. Coarsely chop the reserved vegetables, then add to the pot.

Using a slotted spoon, add 1–2 matzo balls to each bowl, then garnish with parsley and serve hot.