El señor Tomate y sus nobles variaciones

It's in season. Eaten raw in salads, added to broths, or used as a base for stews, this is the perfect time to give it the recognition it deserves. Portugal has a significant responsibility in the consumption of the fruit sold in the produce section. It's not the country that best pairs with wine, but there are good ways to discover it.

What we know for certain is that this is a recent phenomenon in European history. Just 400 years ago, the tomato was still considered a scarce commodity, accessible only to royalty and the Spanish court. Today, we don't even dare to imagine tomatoes being absent from our gardens and tables. It was the Spanish explorers who sensed their usefulness, albeit reluctantly. They arrived from South America with the name it was then given: zitomatl, as the Incas and Aztecs called it.

It's possible that enterprising Turkish traders helped spread the word, softening the original spelling. This is how "tomate" and the tomato, as we know our friend today, came to be. In Italy, it took a different turn, where it was introduced as "golden fruit" or pomo d'oro. In Italian, the product became known as pomodoro, and that's how tomato is pronounced in Italy.

We find ourselves in an intermediate position, but it is undoubtedly what we call a tomato. Solanum lycopersicum is its international scientific name. This means it belongs to the nightshade family, which also includes potatoes, peppers, and eggplants, among many others. However, it can also be considered the fruit of the tomato plant. In the supermarket, we find it undeniably among the vegetables, but its relationship to cherry tomatoes and the sweetness we love so much in beefsteak tomatoes makes us think that it's not so obvious. The topic is as fascinating as it is controversial. Nevertheless, we must acknowledge this duality if we want to explore the duality it clearly possesses.

Global production and production here

The largest tomato producer is China, with a total production exceeding 67 million tons annually. An impressive figure, perhaps one we hadn't anticipated. India ranks second, with an incredible 21 million tons per year. Turkey is the third largest producer of this fruit, with 13 million tons globally. The United States produces ten million tons. Italy is responsible for the production of seven million tons, followed by Egypt (6,200 tons) and Spain (4,700 tons). Portugal occupies a commendable fifteenth place, with a surprising production of 1,700 tons.

The picture changes dramatically when analyzing per capita production. In this respect, Portugal stands as the world leader, with an annual production of approximately 170 kilos per person. Turkey ranks second, with 160 kilos per capita, and Italy third, with 110 kilos per capita. The Ribatejo region accounts for the majority of Portuguese tomato production, something Unilever is well aware of.

In a long conversation I had a few years ago with the president of that global food company, he confided in me that it was the largest buyer of tomatoes in our country. He also told me it was Knorr tomato soup, the undisputed sales leader and a favorite worldwide. I had the rare privilege of visiting a production plant in Germany, which changed my perspective on the global market. In this particular case, with immense admiration, of course. And I became a customer of this tomato soup. Even today, I use much of what I learned from the chefs who create delicious dishes with this simple instant soup.

It's good for your health.

We know from experience that tomatoes have a remarkably consistent acidity. And we've learned that they possess a pleasant sweetness. In season, we can eat them in bites, like an apple or an even sweeter fruit. The tomato is, in fact, an exceptional fruit, and it reaches its peak precisely at this time of year. We know it in various colors and stages of ripeness, and we use it widely in a variety of dishes.

In summary, it's worth analyzing its nutritional and energy profile. To begin with, it's beneficial for the heart. Rich in antioxidants, it keeps veins and arteries cleaner, noticeably improving circulation. Furthermore, it's valuable for regulating blood pressure. Lycopene, an important component of tomatoes, along with vitamin C and other antioxidants, contributes significantly to the health of the cardiovascular system. Potassium plays a fundamental role in this function.

Another aspect we often overlook is that regular tomato consumption helps maintain soft, hydrated skin. It minimizes enlarged pores and helps regulate excessive fluid loss more effectively. Vision also benefits greatly from tomato consumption. Its richness in vitamins A and C is crucial for this effect, especially beta-carotene, which, among other things, combats the onset of disorders such as cataracts. Furthermore, it enhances the anti-inflammatory action we need daily. Bone composition is supported by the high presence of vitamin K. In its direct form, it combats chronic conditions such as osteoporosis.

It occupies a place of honor in Portuguese gastronomy.

Almost all Portuguese broths and consommés use tomatoes as a base. The clearest example is gazpacho, that cold soup we love so much. We can prepare it in the Andalusian style, with a base of crushed tomatoes and aromatic herbs, chilling it and enjoying it as a refreshing drink. If we add a firm diced cucumber and other vegetables, we get a rich and flavorful dish that's a lifesaver in the summer heat.

Alentejo gazpacho is more explicit in its nutritional aspect, as it is based strictly on chopping the raw ingredients; the rest is achieved through the alchemy to which good Alentejo cuisine has accustomed us. I confess my preference for this method, as I particularly appreciate the interaction of the different cold components when chewing. If you add pieces of ham, it creates another dimension in the perception of flavor. I love to pair gazpacho with an unoaked Chardonnay from Lisbon. The wine's aromatic richness perfectly complements the traditional use of aromatic herbs.

A good stock for braising or roasting meat benefits greatly from the presence of good tomatoes. The cooking process is prolonged, and the flavor intensifies. In fact, this is where the transition to red wine pairing often occurs. A Portuguese-style stewed partridge requires and enjoys a full-bodied yet elegant red wine. On the other hand, a roasted sea bream is especially appreciated on a bed of vegetables that includes tomatoes. This is the perfect combination for plum tomatoes. With a base of oregano and garlic, the flavor is enhanced, as is the enjoyment.

In Italian-inspired cooking, tomatoes are essential. Lightly blanch a tomato to make it easier to peel. Finely chop a clove of garlic, add olive oil to a pan, add fresh basil leaves, and prepare a pasta base. This, along with the sautéed and chopped tomatoes, will create a broth that you can freeze in portions to use as needed. When pairing with wine, remember that a light red or even a rosé can work better than a white, as the latter is more acidic. Ideally, choose a lightly extracted, unoaked red wine from the Alentejo region.

A rooster braised in red wine needs and deserves good tomatoes as its base. It's an internationally acclaimed dish that simply cannot exist without tomatoes in its preparation. A good starting point is the wonderful Freamunde-style capon, which is now available year-round. A capon leg roasted in the oven is prepared and cooked just like a pork leg. The fat renders slowly, and we wait patiently, in a process that lasts three hours, the last of which is dedicated to the tomatoes, resulting in a perfect fusion of flavors and textures. With the roasting broth, you can prepare an excellent rice dish, and with the leftover tomatoes, a delicious Caprese salad. Slice the tomatoes, add fresh mozzarella cheese, and drizzle with a good extra virgin olive oil. It's the glory and triumph of authentic Mediterranean cuisine.

In compote, a delicacy fit for the gods.

I was in elementary school when, on an unforgettable day, my teacher Beatriz arrived early with a jar of tomato jam and water crackers. Only two of my classmates from Ribatejo knew about it, and they loved it. All the other children in town had no idea. At the time, I avoided tomatoes like the plague, and it was with trepidation that I tried a little of Beatriz's tomato jam. My reaction was so enthusiastic that, afterward, I was allowed to take a whole jar home for my family to try. It tasted like tomato, but I only explored the fruity side; there was nothing bitter or acidic that could provoke the slightest aversion. Later, we talked about tomatoes during a few classes, and I became hooked. I began to enjoy ripe tomatoes in salads and soups. It is with awakenings like that that we truly awaken to life. And my dear first teacher Beatriz's tomato jam remained etched in my memory as the best in the world. To this day, it hasn't been dethroned, which means I was well initiated.

In recent years, I've had the great pleasure of tasting the Duero's oxheart tomatoes. It was my first experience, accompanying an exceptional young goat on a farm in the region, overlooking the Távora River and under a blazing sun. I found them excellent and wanted to visit the orchard, which they allowed, but only in the late afternoon, as the temperature was over 50°C.

The oxheart tomato is a global phenomenon, but in the Douro region, it takes on a unique character. So much so that a group of producers is currently gathering for an event and competition dedicated to this abundant fruit. These days, there are competitions for everything, and even now, I'm not entirely convinced that such an exceptional product as the Douro oxheart tomato should be exploited in this way. However, the festival itself and the cultural dynamism that has developed over the years more than justify a deeper exploration of the subject.

Dry, bare and creamy

When the Danish Jorgensen family decided to settle in the Alentejo region, they focused on two very special products: sun-dried tomatoes and melons. I met Carrie and Hans Jorgensen years later, when both businesses had succumbed to the voracious appetite of large retailers and a resistance to change; and when the Australian wine consultant Richard Smart was helping them plant what would become the vineyards of Cortes de Cima.

However, at home they consumed and used sun-dried tomatoes in numerous dishes. Today, their daughter Anna Jorgensen manages the wines, and they have diversified their vineyards to the point of having production right by the sea. They make excellent wines, and the topic of sun-dried tomatoes has been duly documented. Being a bit of a rebel, I still use them in salads and in a roast pork loin I prepare at home. I confess I regret having prematurely abandoned production. However, I find solace in what I can find at Apolónia in the Algarve and at El Corte Inglés in Lisbon.

The Andalusian gazpacho mentioned earlier can be made with canned peeled tomatoes, provided you choose the producer carefully. I discussed this in a long conversation I had with the president of Unilever, and it's certainly a top-quality product that Portugal possesses but perhaps isn't fully utilizing. On the other hand, it's ubiquitous in lower-quality culinary solutions. It's important to remember that we don't need to wait for tomatoes to ripen to have a good gazpacho on the table. The industry has already taken care of that. So much so that we still have ready-to-use tomato cream in squeeze bottles. Apolônia has several brands, all excellent. It works perfectly for enriching Italian pasta or for preparing a quick rice dish.

Stories and tales with tomatoes

I can't help but share a few anecdotes about the fruit we've been discussing, and some glories I'll always cherish. When we go to the wonderful Manjar do Marquês in Pombal, we find ourselves in a large house that can accommodate hundreds of diners. The kitchen boasts excellent professionals, but it's still Maria de Lurdes Graça, the owner, who prepares the tomato rice. The great lady confided in me, many years ago, that the rice is prepared in batches of no more than two kilos at a time to keep the grain and flavor intact. The rice is Carolina, as it should be, but the biggest secret lies in the tomatoes. This is because, each season, the restaurant stocks up on tomatoes and stores them in enormous cold storage chambers installed beneath the entire building.

In Lisbon, at the Galito restaurant, they make the best tomato soup I know. Henrique Galito and his son Leonardo prepare what used to only exist in the Serra d'Ossa, near Redondo. I'm referring to the tomato soup with grouper and poached egg, simply divine. It was Gertrudes Forte, Henrique Galito's mother and Leonardo's grandmother, who laid the foundations for this marvel, which is still made today and continues to bring us joy.

Also in the Alentejo region, the restless heart of the great chef António Nobre beats strongly. Although now retired, I owe him one of the greatest culinary surprises: frog legs in tomato sauce, a delicacy that should be on the national flag. Not everyone likes it, especially those who have never tried it and are hesitant. Those who have tasted it crave it madly. An extraordinary balance of flavors; they are eaten by hand, one after the other, and nothing and no one can stop us. We all owe a great debt to António Nobre for delicacies like this, which he perfected like no other. And long live the tomato!