Hungary through the eyes of chefs: a weekend in Eger on two wheels with János Macsinka

“I also cycle a lot,” the chef begins, explaining that he considers cycling a true form of relaxation. During each ride, he stops at a lakeside café, sits down for a coffee or lunch, and then simply continues pedaling. This mode of transport allows us to appreciate the area much more than if we were to visit the sights by car.

Pöttyös Büfé, on the shores of Lake Felsőtárkány, is one of János's favorite spots. He often stops there for lunch or a glass of champagne during his bike rides before heading into the Bükk Mountains. "They make really delicious homemade dishes," he says. The lakeside buffet operates in a peaceful setting, where, as he puts it, it's worth taking a break or simply relaxing for a while.

However, the story of Pöttyös doesn't end there. János returns to his café in the center of Eger mainly for his homemade pastries. He particularly highlights the thick pastry filled with plum jam and the scones, which, according to him, are as essential to a weekend in Eger as a good bike ride.

Continuing from Felsőtárkány towards the Bükk, János suggests that Cserépfalu is also worth a stop. He recommends Öreg Tölgy Bistro for those seeking a more relaxed lunch or dinner during their trip. Thanks to the area's layout, it can easily be incorporated into a cycling or driving route, making it an ideal stop before continuing on to Szilvásvárad or further into the Bükk.

The tripe is also worth a visit.

One of János's favorite spots is a buffet he returns to specifically for the tripe. "There's a buffet on Kistályai út that I go back to every now and then just for the tripe. I think they prepare the best tripe in the area," he says, laughing. According to the chef, these are the places that showcase the true gastronomic essence of a region. When he goes out to eat, he doesn't look for fancy restaurants or fancy concepts, but rather restaurants where a classic dish has been prepared with the same care for years.

To Szilvásvárad for a trout

If anyone decides to continue their journey towards Bükk, according to János, Szilvásvárad is a must-see for the weekend. The Szalajka Valley offers a full day's program: you can travel by forest train to the Gloriett clearing and, from there, continue on foot to Fátyol waterfall, the trout lakes, or even the Szalajka spring. Bicycles can also be rented in the area, and more experienced cyclists can explore Bükk via mountain trails, while those seeking more dynamic activities can choose from various adventure and extreme sports options.

But the chef keeps returning to one very specific place. He considers László Sáfrány's smoked trout simply unmissable. This locally smoked fish is served with pita bread and coleslaw, and according to János, it's hard to find a better place in the area.

There are plenty of restrooms.

After a hike in the foothills of the Bükk Mountains, the nearby spas are also a good option, but János wouldn't necessarily choose the most famous beaches: he prefers the Turkish bath in Eger, which, in his opinion, offers a much quieter alternative during the summer months. For those spending several days in the area, it's worth taking advantage of the fact that the various spas are within easy reach of each other: Bogács, Egerszalók, or even the Zsóry bath in Mezőkövesd are easily accessible, so you can try a different place each day.

A coffee, a cocktail, and a delicious breakfast.

If you're staying in the center of Eger, the chef also recommends several places that don't usually appear in guidebooks. Dopamine Bar and Café is on his list primarily for its cocktails and specialty coffees. "It's a small, cozy place, run by a young guy who makes fantastic cocktails and coffees," he says. For breakfast or a light lunch, he recommends Kávésdoboz Coffee Bar & Deli, where customers can enjoy charcuterie, sandwiches, and Szabolcs Szabadfi bread. He adds that it's one of those places you instantly fall in love with, but if you're not looking for it with a specific purpose in mind, you can easily walk right past it.

And if we included lunch or dinner: Perfect. Gastronomic Workshop. The young team started with the concept of small plates; the goal of the menu, based on sharing plates, is for diners to be able to sample several dishes at once. János is especially pleased that this approach emerged in Eger, although he believes the public needs time to adjust. "I wish them every success."

An unexpected piece of advice from Eger

Although for most people the name Eger conjures up images of the Szépasszony castle or valley, according to János Macsinka, the town also offers some lesser-known gems. One of these is the Beatles Museum, which he enthusiastically recommends even to those who aren't die-hard fans of the band. He says the exhibition, based on one of the world's largest Beatles collections, is a unique offering that presents Eger from a completely different perspective. However, the town's cultural offerings aren't limited to museums; according to János, it's also worth keeping an eye out for the wine events and festivals that are regularly held in the town center during the summer and early autumn, providing an excellent opportunity to visit the region's wineries all in one place.

And if we venture a little outside the city, the chef recommends also visiting the St. Andrea winery in Egerszalók. This winery has long been a benchmark in the Eger wine region, and during wine tastings, those interested can participate in a guided tour of the cellar.

If we have one more day

If you still have time for a weekend getaway, Lake Tisza is well worth a trip. Starting from Poroszló or Sarud, the lake area is easily explored by bike, and the scenery is completely different from the forests of Bükk. "The great thing about Lake Tisza is that there's no rush. You can cycle around it, stop for a spritz or a bite to eat, and then continue your journey."

The nearly 65-kilometer cycling route is one of the most popular along Hungary's coast. Experienced cyclists can complete it in a day, but due to the numerous stops, it's worth splitting it into two. The Tisza Lake Ecological Center, the observation towers built over the water, the bird sanctuaries, and the harbors are other reasons to visit the area.

According to the chef, one of the region's greatest advantages is that you can have completely different experiences in just a few days. A morning in the center of Eger, a bike ride through the Bükk mountains, smoked trout in Szilvásvárad, or an afternoon on the shores of Lake Tisza can all be part of the same weekend.