The legendary Italian pastry chef Iginio Massari is offering a masterclass on panettone in Madrid

“With this event, we want to create a space to share knowledge, discuss the evolution of artisan panettone, and highlight the importance of raw materials in productions that require such technique and precision. Flour is the starting point, and our responsibility is to offer professionals the highest quality raw materials,” said Sabrina Dallagiovanna, CEO of Molino Dallagiovanna, at the opening.

The day began with the round table discussion 'Artisan Panettone: Tradition, Evolution, and New Trends,' which brought together Oriol Balaguer, José Romero Barranco, and Nuño García to analyze the current state of this traditional bread and its evolution in Spain. The three shared different approaches to panettone and addressed issues such as the importance of flour, the control of fermentation, and the balance between tradition and innovation.

The debate highlighted how panettone has ceased to be a product exclusively linked to Christmas and has become one of the great territories of creativity and research in contemporary artisan pastry.

After the conversation, Iginio Massari took over with a demonstration in which he prepared two versions of panettone. The first followed the traditional recipe, while the second explored new possibilities using Blackery, the new blend of flours and cocoa developed by Molino Dallagiovanna in collaboration with Barry Callebaut.

“Flour is the fundamental ingredient, but it’s a living element that you have to understand, not just weigh. There’s no such thing as perfect flour, but rather the right flour for each recipe. The quality of good flour determines the success of a handcrafted product. In the case of panettone, its apparent simplicity doesn’t allow for mistakes: you have to know each ingredient perfectly and know the exact amount the recipe needs for the dough to come to life,” Massari explained.

In this context, flour took center stage as one of the pastry chef's essential tools. In a preparation like panettone, its ability to withstand long fermentation times and create highly structured doughs is crucial for achieving the desired result. “In panettone, flour plays a fundamental role and cannot be understood in isolation from the working conditions. We work with more than 450 types of flour, because we balance them according to the climate and the needs of each batch, always striving for maximum stability and the result that the professional requires.”

With nearly two centuries of history, Molino Dallagiovanna has built its legacy around the selection and processing of grain, maintaining processes such as grain washing and slow, gentle milling, in addition to a meticulous selection of raw materials. The company currently offers 450 flour blends, designed to meet the needs of different professionals and products, from bread and pizza to pasta and pastries.