Anthony Gismondi: Here are some red blends and varietal wines to sip this fall
Last week, we touched on several red wines for fall. This week, we continue with a selection of red blends and varietal wines, based on recent summer tastings.
Before you start your search, know that some B.C. wines are available in B.C. liquor stores, though selection can be spotty because wineries prefer selling direct online or in person. Some reach select private shops, and you can always order direct from the winery.
Private wine shops work with many suppliers to bring in a wide range of imported and domestic wines not listed by the monopoly. “Unlisted product,” a term in the trade, gives store owners a sales advantage by offering unique labels that can be priced higher because the wines have no other market footprint. It makes bargain hunting harder, but it offers access to a wider selection and knowledgeable staff who know their inventory well. Typically, you’d need to visit the store to discover which wines they carry. Some top stores now have online sites but, unbelievably, the largest retailer west of Toronto, B.C. Liquor Stores, still has no online sales presence. Here is where we come in:
B.C. wine industry veteran general manager Christa-Lee McWatters and winemakers Karen Yeung and Korol Kuklo released their Adega on 45th Malbec Merlot 2022, Okanagan Valley ($34.99). They grabbed a silver medal at the National Wine Awards. The tannins are soft, and the fruit-to-acid ratio is balanced, making the wine accessible now with most grilled meats.
Maverick Estate Renegade 2022, Okanagan Valley ($40) is a versatile, food-friendly, juicy red with a savoury finish. Drink now or hold; you won’t be disappointed. From the same winery, the Maverick Estate Winery Rubeus 2022, Okanagan Valley ($27.99) is available in select private wine shops. It is a showpiece for what the South Okanagan is capable of in this Rhône-reminiscent, deft blend of 53 per cent Cabernet Franc and 47 per cent Merlot you can drink now.
Almost directly across the valley floor to the east, the Phantom Creek Estates Petite Cuvée 2021, Okanagan Valley ($39.99), is a highly polished, Bordeaux-inspired blend that is suave and layered, with blackcurrant, tobacco and a dusting of spice. It offers complexity and elegance even at this young age. A real bargain pick is the Folgorosa Tinta 2021, Lisboa, Portugal ($20.99), a fresh blend that comes across as a juicy red, perfect for al fresco dining or as the nights cool down, and pairs well with grilled meats. If you need a story, the quinta was founded in 1711 north of Lisbon, and the vineyard lies about 20 kilometres from the Atlantic Ocean.
The Château Pesquié Ventoux Terrasses Rouge 2023, Ventoux, France ($21.99) is a mainstay in the French section of government liquor stores. The 60/40 Grenache/Syrah blend is a juicy, full-flavoured, easy-drinking, meaty, earthy red that pairs well with pizzas, charcuterie plates and more.
From Italy, Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva 2022 ($32.99) honours its ancestors, who penned the first official document mentioning Chianti in 1398. Its fragrant wild red fruits and damp earth make this a gastronomic wine, ready to pair with your favourite Italian dishes.
For readers with some extra spare change to spend, there are some excellent high-end wines marked down this month. Travelling quickly through the “sale” listings at bcliquorstores.com, here’s what caught my interest. Availability varies by store, so check the listing and drill down to the page that shows which stores have bottles.
Look for: 2017 Mouton Rothschild, $1,200 is $880; Fonseca 2016 Port, $149.99 is $129.97; Champagne Lanson Green Label, $92.99 is $79.97; La Vielle Ferme Ventoux Rouge 3L box, $48.99 is $41.99; Giant Steps Pinot Noir, $44.99 is $39.99; Inama Vigneti di Carbonare Soave Classico, $48.99 is $39.97; Argiano Non Confunditor, $37.99 is $32.99; and Bodegas Izadi Larrosa Negra Rioja, $28.99 is $25.99.
Fort Berens Riesling 2024, Lillooet, British Columbia
Four dollars off all month makes this Lillooet Riesling an easy buy. It is an off-dry, very fresh version of cool-climate Riesling with tropical notes of lime and freshly cut apples, finishing with a mouth-puckering zest. This clean, bright white won a gold medal at the National Wine Awards of Canada. It is food-friendly, with multiple menu options, including Indian or Thai curry, or beef or pork tacos. Whether you drink it now or hold onto it, it will age effortlessly.
Terravista Vineyards Marsanne 2025, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Terravista’s inaugural stand-alone Marsanne is a revelation of the diversity of B.C. wine country, as growers explore more and more grapes and opportunities to go beyond the norm. The nose is laden with fresh peach, baked pears and citrus oil. It is fresher and juicier than the French model, but that only makes it more fun to sip. The mouth feel is broad and generous, and then the mineral, stony Naramata undercurrent shows up to brighten the finish. This is a great debut, and you should embrace it as soon as you can because these bottles are going to disappear fast.
Tantalus Blanc de Noir 2023, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
The Blanc de Noir colour is an attractive, almost rosé-like pale salmon. Fresh and loaded with red fruit that offset the minerality and leesy notes, shouting complexity and depth. This is a terrific sparkling wine and joins a handful of B.C. Blanc de Noirs that are turning heads whenever the cork is popped. The fruit comes from a single estate block of clone 93 Pinot Noir that is now more than 40 years old. If you are celebrating anything, this would be the bottle to choose. Good value.
Château Pesquié Edition 1912m 2024, Ventoux, Southern Rhône Valley, France
Named for Mont Ventoux’s 1,912-metre summit, this 70/20/10 Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault blend is a commercially accessible release, a clear expression of the mountain’s influence on Ventoux wines and one of the appellation’s best values. Enjoy its juicy black raspberry and black plum, sprinkled with pepper and Provençal herbs. Organically grown fruit and broad drinkability should give it wide consumer appeal. Look for this in select private wine stores.
Zuccardi Serie A Malbec 2023, Valle de Uco, Tunuyán, Mendoza, Argentina
Time for another look at the Serie A Malbec, reduced by $5 all month. It is fermented wild in a mix of concrete and oak. The result is a juicy, rich, elegant red with a transparency that draws you into its round, mouth-filling, black savoury fruit. Perfectly balanced, its layered flavours, flecked with nuances of spice and florals, enrich the final taste. This polished wine reaches well beyond its price range. Buy and drink, or hold. The choice is yours. Backup the truck.
Calendar and other items
• The Vinícola Portugal Wine Festival, an ode to Portugal’s diverse terroirs, celebrates its 5th anniversary on Sept. 26, at Mount Pleasant’s Heritage Hall (3102 Main St., Vancouver). Guests are invited to enjoy an afternoon of wine tasting, featuring 70 labels from across Portugal — from Vinho Verde and the Douro in the north to Bairrada, Dão and the Alentejo. The wines, hand-picked by Vancouver’s boutique Portuguese importers, range from century-old names, such as Symington, Casa Ferreirinha and Ramos Pinto, to smaller newcomers. The festival will also feature a pop-up bottle shop run by Sutton Place Wine Merchants and a snack bar. Tickets are $65+ and are available online at AdmitONE.
• RICO Chicken, a delivery-only concept from chef-owner Ricardo Valverde and the team behind Vancouver’s acclaimed SUYO Modern Peruvian and UCHU Cevicheria & Raw Bar, is up and running. The menu features 24-hour-marinated roasted chicken, certified organic from Windberry Farms in Abbotsford, house-made sides, signature sauces, classic Peruvian entrées, desserts and beverages. The food is available exclusively through Uber Eats, DoorDash, and SkipTheDishes, with pre-orders available for corporate catering and group events. Simply add your favourite crisp B.C. white wine and your dinner is done.
Phantom Creek Estates Rosé 2025, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada
Love the look, nose and taste of this certified organic rosé. Aromas of wild strawberries and raspberries mingle with Old English rose petals. The palate is fresh and smooth, letting this pink slip down effortlessly. The finish is clean and bright, ready to pair with food. Well done and ready to drink, this label has really come into its own, and it measures up to its price, too.
Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2023, Rhône Valley, France
We thought this was a solid buy at $19.99. It is on sale all month for $15.99. Seriously, treat yourself to something that jumps from the glass, with pears and citrus winding through a floral opening to a mineral, wet-stone finish. Crisp and light, it is the perfect wine for West Coast seafood. It is listed in 105 B.C. Liquor stores. You can’t go wrong.
