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09 September 2026Latest Articles
THE IMPERIAL EPICUREAN GAZETTE
THE WORLD'S TABLE, SERVED EVERY DAY
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The Grand Tour
By Kenji Haruna, The Grand Tour desk6h agoItaly3 min read
Italy's Michelin Guide 2026 crowns a third star among the Serralunga vineyards

Italy's Michelin Guide 2026 crowns a third star among the Serralunga vineyards

At Teatro Regio in Parma, before five hundred guests, the Michelin Guide Italy 2026 named La Rei Natura the country's newest three-star house, lifting the national total to 394 starred addresses.

Parma's Teatro Regio filled to five hundred guests on the night the Michelin Guide Italy 2026 was read aloud from its stage, one name after another rising through the twenty-five new entries and settling into a list that already ran, before the evening began, city by city and hillside by hillside across the length of the country. Nothing in the reading hurried. Then the count changed.

Among the twenty-five was one restaurant lifted past every other rank to three stars, the highest the guide grants and the rarest to arrive in a single year, and it did not sit in a capital or along a coastline crowded with other names. It sat instead between the vine rows of Serralunga d'Alba, where the inspectors placed La Rei Natura and its chef, Michelangelo Mammoliti, at the head of the year's list, the vineyard rows running past the dining room windows the way a border runs past a house that has learned to ignore it. The kitchen sits among vines. Grapes are counted there before plates are, and the counting does not stop for the accolade.

Two restaurants already carrying one star climbed to a second, their tables now weighted with an expectation the guide itself created and will now have to answer for, and twenty-two more restaurants entered the list for the first time, each with a single star sewn into a fabric the guide has been weaving, town by town, for longer than any of tonight's chefs have been cooking. The guide does not weave. It only counts the threads already crossing, tightens what the kitchens themselves pulled taut, and calls the result a list.

Three hundred ninety-four addresses across Italy now hold at least one star, a number the Teatro Regio audience heard and applauded before it had time to settle into anything as fixed as memory, before the twenty-five names had separated themselves from one another in anyone's recollection of the evening. Outside the theater, past the applause and the five hundred emptying seats, the vine rows of Serralunga d'Alba keep to their own hours, indifferent to guides and galas alike, waiting only for whoever sits down at La Rei Natura next and tastes what the hillside decided, this particular year, to give.

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