Aürt, five years of radicalism

Aürt has been championing this for five years from the Hilton Diagonal Mar in Barcelona. A location that initially seemed a bit odd for such a project, but where it has clearly managed, quite literally, to take root and establish one of the most interesting cuisines in the city.

Returning there after a few years confirms that they remain committed to the path they forged from the beginning. It's an exercise in consistency, centered around a way of understanding cuisine that translates into doing the same thing, but better. Because that idea of ​​simplicity and reflection that Martínez has championed for years has matured beautifully over the past half-decade, resulting in a menu with real meaning. It sounds easy to say, but it's not so easy to find.

Exoticism from nearby

Those who are willing to delve into this theoretical foundation will find all the details in the letter, with nearly twenty points that perfectly summarize the company's philosophy. The inclusion of a reference to the importance of fostering a positive work environment is one of those details that is truly appreciated. Especially considering that it has been there from the beginning, not as a mere add-on to the discourse that is gradually gaining traction in the sector.

But theory doesn't put food on the table, so what's important is seeing how all those concepts that make up Aürt are translated onto the plate. Beneath an apparent simplicity in recipes like green pepper, tomato with ñora pepper Sriracha, or squid in pil-pil sauce, there are truly complex preparations where only a highly refined technique manages to go unnoticed, allowing all the focus to remain on the product.

Besides untouchable classics like the onion royale, or delicious bites like the grilled sweetbread toast—if they aren't the best sweetbreads in the country, they're certainly close—other dishes showcase a very interesting idea that Artur Martínez himself often describes as local exoticism. Two examples: the bonito with miso made with Ganxet beans that starts the menu, or the Thai curry from Aquím, in which they use horchata instead of coconut milk.

This proximity also serves to rescue almost forgotten products such as the botifarra de Terregada, typical of the Vallés Occidental region, where Martínez is from, and which here is used to cook a ragù alongside sardines that accompany an aubergine.

For dessert: piquillo peppers and leeks

After a sequence of more than 15 savory bites, dessert arrives. That might sound daunting to those who dislike endless tasting menus, but that's not the case here. Everything is carefully planned to minimize waiting time, the portions are just right so you don't end up feeling overly full, and ultimately, we're dealing with a menu of more than twenty courses that flows beautifully thanks to the culinary expertise of Pol Ruiz, Marc Cano, and Xavi Romero.

Following Eva Feliu's recent departure, Mar Ibáñez has taken charge of the desserts, where, once again, the restaurant's signature style is clearly evident. The piquillo pepper with strawberries is a surprising yet successful dish, the peach with blancmange is delicious, and the leek with vanilla and coffee is another highlight in this trend of desserts featuring unexpected ingredients.

Although there are a few tables, enough interesting things are happening in the open kitchen to warrant sitting at the bar and watching what's going on. Aürt offers a single tasting menu for €145, with a wine pairing option for €70. The wine cellar follows the same philosophy as the cuisine, featuring Catalan wines, most of which are minimally vinified.

It's worth trying the Rar·Mut vermouth, which they produce themselves in collaboration with Can Morral del Molí. Combined with kombucha, it makes an interesting aperitif. And among the wines, Vinya del Xesc, another house wine in collaboration with the aforementioned winery, stands out. Years ago, before it was fashionable, they were already committed to natural wines.