Osteria La Segreta in Rome, Campania cuisine has arrived on Via Margutta (with art, design, and sharing dishes)

The art and history of Osteria La Segreta

The spaces have been completely renovated by Antonio, with blue as the dominant color, starting from the entrance: a blue door that, from the outside, almost looks like a porthole, through which you can see little or nothing of the interior. The place, in fact, besides being decidedly beautiful in its originality, with the two large plants in the center of the room that almost touch the ceiling and the majestic chandelier, is slowly transforming into a small art gallery with a kitchen, thanks to the works Antonio is adding, partly out of passion (the goal is to forge collaborations with local galleries) and partly to pay homage to the artistic history of Via Margutta. On the ground floor there is also a bar area, but we recommend going upstairs, where the tables are even more intimate and where you can look out and observe the entire room.

"Why the name La Segreta?" I ask Antonio, who responds with a rather curious story about his property in Amalfi, Villa La Segreta, which he plans to transform into a "barter hotel": guests can stay in exchange for their art and work. A decidedly ambitious and somewhat utopian project, but not surprising given the architect's flair.

The cuisine of Osteria La Segreta

But let's return to Rome, to La Segreta on Via Margutta, and especially to its cuisine, which, as I mentioned, is closely tied to the traditions of Campania and the local produce that arrives daily. And the kitchen team also hails from Campania. "I like to present the menu as if it were a home-cooked meal," explains Antonio, "where everything is put front and center and shared, a habit we call 'spicciolata'. Traditional dishes, simple, but with top-quality ingredients." The pasta, in fact, comes from 28 Pastai del Pastificio di Gragnano, the anchovies and tuna in oil come from the Cetarii company in Cetara, the buffalo mozzarella is from the Tenuta Vannulo organic farm in Paestum, and the desserts are by Sal De Riso.

And so the meal at La Segreta begins with many dishes on the table, which pass through the hands of the diners and each one takes a bit. Lots of vegetables, in the “vegetable garden” section, such as the sautéed escarole with Piennolo tomatoes, anchovies, Pantelleria capers and Itrane olives (8 euros) or the broccoli rabe sautéed with garlic, oil and chilli pepper (8). There is also the aubergine parmigiana (8). All accompanied by cafone bread, which also comes directly from Naples.

There is a bit of land, for example the beef tartare with julienne of crunchy artichokes (18), a generous plate of 30 month old S.Ilario raw ham (14), there are the classics such as paccheri with three tomatoes (20) and spaghetti with garlic, oil and Campanian chilli pepper (18). But above all there is a lot of sea, with raw and cooked dishes. So prawns, tuna, calamari tagliatelle, truffles and oysters, even if the real gem is the cod sashimi with orange zest (16). And then peppered mussels (16), fried spillo calamari (16), spaghetti with clams (28), mixed pasta with beans and mussels (22), Nerano-style potato gnocchi with red prawns (22).

A look at the wine list, which features plenty of Italian names, but also has a strong focus on Campanian labels. And for those who prefer a drink, you can order something to pair with your dishes.

Osteria La Segreta. Via Margutta 82, Rome. Tel. 06 51980314. Website. Facebook. Instagram.