Lambs of yesterday, today and always

Among screenings, debates, round tables, exhibitions, wine tastings and themed menus inspired by films, the Cinephiles&Gourmets Awards were also presented, one of which went to the actress Geraldine Chaplin, whose presence for three days in Laguardia was quite an event for the locals and for those of us who were part of the organization of the event.

After CineGourland ended, the actress headed to Madrid with her husband, Pato Castilla, to catch a flight home. I, for my part, was traveling to the capital with Antonio Saura, a film producer, also a member of the organizing committee, and, incidentally, Chaplin's stepson. We decided we should organize a farewell lunch and, on the recommendation of businessman Manuel Robledo, who knows a thing or two about food, we stopped in Aranda de Duero (Burgos), at Asador Casa Florencio.

Upon entering the restaurant, Geraldine caused quite a stir when customers and staff spotted her. The table was reserved in my name, but, as if by magic, in a matter of microseconds it had become "Mrs. Chaplin's table." From that moment on, the rest of us diners felt increasingly small, while she grew ever larger: everything served, from appetizers to dessert, including main courses and wines, was for Mrs. Chaplin, who condescendingly shared it with "the rest of us."

I don't know if it was because they went out of their way to serve such an illustrious guest, but the fact is I remember that meal as absolutely unforgettable, to which the fantastic company also contributed greatly. So memorable, in fact, that for the next fifteen years I haven't dared to revisit Casa Florencio, because of that old saying about not returning to places where you were once happy.

But this autumn I mustered my courage and put both my memory and reality to the test, returning to this grill restaurant founded in 1949 (it celebrates its platinum anniversary next year) and taken over by Rafael Miquel at the beginning of the 21st century. With its rustic decor, tapas bar, and dining room spread over two floors, it's located on a central pedestrian street in the city. And it was a relief to discover, in equally good company as before, that if the meal was memorable, it's because at this restaurant, today as yesterday, the food is excellent.

Let me preface this by saying that in this establishment, modern touches are minimal, if not entirely absent. People come here seeking genuine, traditional Castilian cuisine, with roasts as the undisputed star. But before we get to the roast, we must begin with a few essential appetizers. Because essential is that Aranda black pudding, made with rice and plenty of cinnamon, crispy yet juicy, which, accompanied by a very good olive oil flatbread and some delicate, meaty roasted red peppers, perfectly sets the stage for a truly memorable meal.

The time for the roast would arrive. But a dilemma arose. What if, before the suckling lamb, we tried the grilled lamb chops? Wouldn't that be too much? The solution is simple and provided by the restaurant itself: instead of a quarter of a suckling lamb, which is the standard size in any grill, you can order a portion equivalent to half a quarter, which, if we do the math, is an eighth.

The lamb chops are worth it; they're all cut on the bone and arrive at the table on a sort of mini-grill with hot coals to keep them warm. Incredibly thin, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with a burst of flavor, they're almost sinful. The double-cooked fries are a fantastic accompaniment.

And now, it's time for the star of the show: a suckling lamb of the Churra breed, about four weeks old, slowly roasted in a wood-fired oven for almost three hours. It arrives in a classic earthenware dish, with an almost buttery texture and just the right amount of fat—enough to enhance the flavor without being overpowering or cloying. Tradition dictates serving it with a salad to cleanse the palate, but enjoying it with the bread from the beginning is perfectly fine.

For drinks, the winery focuses primarily, and unsurprisingly, on red wines from the Ribera del Duero region. A nice touch is that many of them are available by the glass, which is very convenient for trying several different wines.

PS If you visit the restaurant, which is highly recommended, on one of its walls you can find the photos that Geraldine Chaplin took with the owner back in May 2007.