Trend check: Sustainable networking

Nearly 90 kilometers east of Berlin, traditional farming methods are practiced, and precisely for that reason, they are groundbreaking. The Gut & Bösel farm focuses on regenerative cycles, establishes forests, and uses cattle for landscape management and soil fertilization. With scientific support, a type of agriculture is emerging here that stands in contrast to the industrial system geared solely towards efficiency. The farm is part of a network dedicated to connecting artisanal producers with restaurateurs and chefs to create a new food culture.

A good example of a long-term approach...

...is the Gut & Bösel agricultural operation in Alt Madlitz. Regular exchanges with restaurateurs and chefs generate ideas for using plants that are native but not commonly found. "This turns chefs into ambassadors for our work and provides an important marketing channel that wouldn't be possible without the exchange here," says Lea Ligat, who heads marketing at Gut & Bösel.

The pioneers:

Among the pioneers of such networks are Feinheimische from Kiel. Seven restaurateurs founded the association back in 2007 to demonstrate that high-quality cooking is possible using products from Schleswig-Holstein. Now, it boasts over 500 members from the gastronomy and agricultural sectors who meet regularly and have committed to shared values.

"At our events, people who do similar things but have never spoken to each other meet. You can really feel how much this kind of exchange has been missing," says board member Oliver Firla, who himself runs several restaurants, including ODINS Haithabu in Busdorf. Direct contact with producers is valuable for both restaurateurs and farmers. This way, even heirloom vegetable varieties or very small quantities find their buyers.

In theory, anyone who works without convenience foods and sources at least 60 percent of their products regionally can become part of the network. "While 100 percent would be possible, it would place an enormous burden on many of our members," says Oliver Firla. Nevertheless, every business is inspected before being accepted to assess its cooking and purchasing practices. Producers and growers benefit, and the quality of training is also improved. "Those who train with us," says Oliver Firla, "also spend a few weeks working at a butcher's, a cheese dairy, or a farm."

Hosts with values

Restaurateurs with values ​​– a Nuremberg network of chefs.

Trainees also gain insights into various businesses at restaurants run by traditional restaurateurs. The Nuremberg network was founded during the first lockdown of the pandemic and initially began as a WhatsApp group where questions were answered and problems were solved. "At our first meeting, we realized that we all wanted the same thing and that working together would be much more beneficial," says Till-Jonas Heinz, who runs ess.brand in Nuremberg. They decided to work together, not against each other, and create a network that makes it easier for new restaurateurs to get started. This strengthens the scene, where regionally focused top-class cuisine is already well-established, for example at Felix Schneider's etz in Nuremberg or at Essigbrätlein by Andree Köthe and Yves Ollech.

The success of these communities demonstrates their importance to the regions and the people connected to them. However, even if they have existed for many years, the networks grow slowly because the work is mostly done on a voluntary basis or as a side job. "We also receive inquiries from other cities, but to build something like this, you need local partners who have the resources and perseverance to want to make a difference," says Friederike Gaedke.

Lectures are planned in the Rhineland, but the network itself needs to be initiated by local people. That's why there are hardly any centrally managed networks covering a large region. Yet networking strengthens education, agriculture – and the gastronomy sector, especially when the end result is a valuable food product that also benefits guests. The easy route leads through wholesalers and to interchangeable products. "But with producers you know, there's always a story behind them," says Oliver Firla, "and that makes a big difference."