Gonzaba Grill, by the heat of the embers

And what does this have to do with a food magazine, the kind reader might ask? Well, it's a perfect analogy for Asador Gonzaba, a successful project that was born (that is, took off) in Santiago de Compostela in 1976 and has two other branches, in A Coruña and Carballo, as well as a "sister" restaurant in Riazor, Tira do Playa, famous for its sea bass.

For the group led by businessman José Fernández, the time has come to try their luck in Madrid (that is, to confirm their alternative), a city where the steakhouse culture has been thriving for decades, transcending fads and trends. They have the resources and the product to do it… and a few adjustments to make, too.

The ambitious launch in the capital has been a grand affair, in a mega-premises of 800 square meters on the prime corner where Hermosilla, Ayala, and Alcalá streets converge. The space is divided into two floors, a mezzanine, and a semi-basement. The street level serves solely as a reception area.

Upstairs, a stately dining room is bathed in natural light thanks to large windows. Downstairs, the decor is more in the style of a classic steakhouse, with its grill, display case showcasing beef tenderloins, a sort of mini-fish tank stocked with all kinds of shellfish, and a large glass-enclosed wine cellar.

Before moving on to the grilled meats and wild-caught fish, which are the restaurant's main draw, take a quick look at the starters. Above all, don't miss the lobster salad, featuring an exceptionally high-quality lobster with a firm texture, accompanied by a light and subtle vinaigrette. This dish alone is worth the visit.

The ham and sheep's milk croquettes were good. The delicate confit artichokes with farm-fresh egg yolk and their chips on a sort of Robuchon-style mashed potato also worked very well. The grilled octopus with potato and San Simón cheese cream, however, wasn't quite as impressive, confirming the theory many of us hold that seafood and dairy are best kept separate. The sirloin steak tartare with bone marrow, while impeccable in terms of meat quality and cut, could have had a bit more punch. And the foie gras profiterole felt more like a concession to a more sophisticated, bourgeois clientele than anything else.

For the grilled fish, we had to choose between sea bass, turbot, and red porgy (also known as scorpionfish), which we opted for. It was a perfect choice, bursting with freshness, tenderness, and flavor. As a side dish, we had wonderful roasted peppers and boiled potatoes.

Now it's time for the meat. Five varieties of ribeye steak to choose from: Galician veal, Galician Blonde beef, Black Angus, Wagyu, and ox, mostly sourced from their own cattle farm in Lugo, although they also work with trusted suppliers like Discarlux. The decision for a die-hard carnivore is simple: Galician Blonde beef.

What I never imagined was that it would be the biggest disappointment of the meal. Presented as a ribeye steak from an eight-year-old animal, aged for 60 days, it was overcooked and rather cold. I want to attribute this to the massive influx of customers that day (as it is every day, by the way) or to the fact that they haven't quite mastered the grill yet, but in either case, it should never have arrived at the table in such a state. The side dish is the same as the fish, when perhaps French fries would have worked better than boiled potatoes.

The caramelized French toast with nougat ice cream and hints of vanilla is a dessert that won't disappoint those with a sweet tooth. Likewise, the well-stocked wine cellar, with a predominance of Galician labels, won't disappoint wine lovers, although the high prices aren't exactly an incentive.