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24 September 2026Latest Articles
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The Dining Room
By Tobias Wren, the Dining Room deskSpain3 min read
Genius in the kitchen

Genius in the kitchen

He's the most brilliant chef I know. Dabiz Muñoz transcends all known culinary styles, which is why each visit to Diverxo becomes a truly unique experience. I don't usually like to use the word "experience," but here it perfectly captures it. This Madrid native's success is no fluke.

But the Dabiz Muñoz of 2025 is a much more reflective chef, one who hasn't abandoned the groundbreaking style that has always characterized him, but which he has refined and shaped. He doesn't hesitate to correct himself when he believes he's made a mistake. On the Madrid Fusion 2016 stage, in a self-critical presentation, he acknowledged that for a time he had prioritized showmanship over the food. And now, in this season's menu, he has taken another step towards simplicity, with cleaner dishes, stripped of all superficial elements, with fewer "satellites" surrounding them—a successful revision of his work from previous years. This doesn't mean he has embraced minimalism; he's still far from it. But now there are one or two main ingredients that stand out, supported by the rest.

All this without sacrificing the intense flavors that are one of the keys to his cuisine. As are the refined nuances of each dish in a menu that continues to know no limits or boundaries. And as is the constant, intelligent playfulness to which he invites diners who enjoy themselves and are entertained. The frozen ceviche he presented at Madrid Fusion in a joint presentation with Gastón Acurio; the (faux) shark fin soup in which he uses stew broth and chistorra sausage from Arbizu; the clams from Carril steamed with sake and Chinese cabbage tortellini; the baby octopus sabu sabu with Galician octopus broth; the unique Mediterranean XO sauce; the rabbit and langoustine paella that he makes only to use the rice as a base for nigiri served in a spoon, such as the one with hare brains and marinated sardine; The Vietnamese pho with baby eels and teardrop peas, or the reimagined cannelloni, are particularly brilliant moments in a menu that only a genius could execute.

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