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24 September 2026Latest Articles
THE IMPERIAL EPICUREAN GAZETTE
THE WORLD'S TABLE, SERVED EVERY DAY
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The Cellar
By Inés Alcubierre, the Cellar deskNone3 min read
Respect for gray hair

Respect for gray hair

He sports tattooed arms, a Peaky Blinders-style mustache, and a shaved nape. He approaches the table, occupied by three couples well past 60, and greets them with, "Hey guys, what are we having today?" He gets lost when listing the ingredients of a dish, searching for any allergens, and his recommendation on the wine list is based on an unequivocal "this one's very popular." The service is chaotic

Among the stack of CVs that didn't make the cut are other profiles that stand out for their training, experience, and skills. One of them started as an apprentice at one of the city's great classic restaurants, has run several of his own businesses—small neighborhood bars that didn't work out due to unforeseen circumstances—has catered hundreds of banquets, and has plenty of experience dealing with customers. He speaks French, which he learned in school, and has a smattering of English, enough to make himself understood.

He doesn't have a sommelier qualification, but he knows the world of wine, both as a hobby and because he's taken a couple of tasting courses. He moves discreetly around the dining room and knows at a glance when a customer wants to be addressed formally and when they prefer to be given less formality.

Which of the two would you prefer to be served by? It's clear that not all young, attractive waiters are incompetent, nor is age a guarantee of good service, but it shouldn't be synonymous with a lack of opportunities either. Personally, I trust a multigenerational staff, where veterans and apprentices bring a blend of experience, enthusiasm, and vitality to the service. Here's a clue: the restaurant that systematically rejects gray hair might just be putting on a facade.

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