Ekö Bistro: boldness and audacity

They are Íñigo Uribe Paredes, a Spanish chef of Ecuadorian descent who, at 25, has worked for chefs like Mario Sandoval and Iván Domínguez, and Eden Monoyez, a 26-year-old French sommelier. In July, they opened Ekö Bistro in the Sagasta Street location formerly occupied by the Japanese restaurant Nakama. The name, incidentally, doesn't refer to any ideologies or ecological concepts, but is a tribute to Monoyez's dog, which shares the same name.

What exactly does their proposal consist of? Well, it involves taking traditional French cuisine as a starting point, incorporating elements from Spanish recipes, and then doing whatever they please, adding, removing, or tweaking them; most of the time, with considerable skill and success, and sometimes, with a little less skill and success, but in any case, always with plenty of energy and audacity. Their motto, ambitious beyond measure, is "freedom, art, and new cuisine."

A fun way to start off the Petrossian fish roe spreads. The cod and king crab spreads are superb and intense, while the truffle spread is less interesting. Surprisingly, they're served in spoons that aren't individual, so you have to serve yourself, which is rather inconvenient. Wouldn't a small bowl or individual spoons be better?

Before we get into the culinary details, and since we've already touched on the spoons… Let's talk about the details. Some are very well thought out and much appreciated, like the magnificent and varied glassware or the elegant handcrafted tableware. On the other hand, the disposable, tiny napkins are a bit much… Especially in a place where the average price doesn't go below 60 euros.

The smoked herring salad with yogurt and dill sauce might evoke Scandinavian cuisine, but Menoyez says it is also typical of northern France, where he comes from (Lille) and where it is served with endive, to which Uribe adds avocado and mango, which refresh and lighten it.

Also originating from northern France is what they call white black pudding, which is actually more of a sausage than a blood sausage. Seared and sliced, it's quite tasty and enhanced by truffle shavings. However, it's not complemented by a pear and white chocolate sauce, which is entirely unnecessary.

To make it clear that Uribe is a chef with impeccable classic technique, nothing beats a dish like the sole meunière, perfectly cooked and flavorful. Unfortunately (I suppose due to logistical and staffing issues), it arrives at the dining room already plated, depriving us of the wonderful spectacle of watching a maître d' preparing it. As a side dish, sautéed black trumpet mushrooms, peak (and fleeting) season mushrooms that provide an intriguing contrast.

While black trumpet mushrooms are in season, the same can't be said for the fresh fig that accompanies the venison tenderloin. We're told it comes from Turkey… In any case, the fig is irrelevant, because the meat is so overcooked and dry that not even a remarkable demi-glace can save it. A failed dish that doesn't live up to what came before or what followed: two more than adequate desserts, the pistachio mille-feuille and a chocolate bread with which the chef seems to be reminiscing about his childhood—that is to say, just the other day.

We were talking about the glassware earlier. Now it's time to talk about the liquids that fill it. From the moment you step inside, Monoyez conveys his deep love for wine. This translates into a Franco-Spanish wine list perfect for oenophiles, with a vast selection by the glass and a predominance of sparkling wines… and sakes, the sommelier's great hidden passion.

Ending a meal with outstanding coffee is, unfortunately, rare, but it is possible, and Ekö Bistro is a prime example. A restaurant to watch, where, despite its shortcomings, a promising future is evident.

The main course menu will delight those seeking authentic French dishes, which are not easy to find in Madrid. Vegetable lovers will find classics like ratatouille. French cuisine comes alive in dishes such as sole Meunière with black trumpet mushrooms, a combination that showcases Íñigo's inspiration in honoring an iconic recipe while giving it a fresh twist. Or try the duck breast with parsnip purée and sweet peppercorn sauce, which transports you to Parisian bistros without leaving the heart of Madrid.

For dessert, there are again options that go beyond the usual, with classic flavors given Íñigo's signature touch. The menu features a Brugal 1888 rum babà, a hallmark of French pastry; vanilla and raspberry choux pastry; and pistachio cream mille-feuille. There are also the chef's childhood memories, made with chocolate ganache, olive oil bread, and Maldon salt.

A liquid menu without equal in Madrid

Íñigo's cuisine finds its perfect complement in the drinks menu designed by Eden. The wine list, which takes its name from Arthur Rimbaud's poem 'Le Bateau Ivre', features classic selections with a touch of rebellion, rarities, and unexpected discoveries, with a special focus on French labels.

Eden, trained as a sommelier in Bordeaux, has left his mark on the wine list. Beyond wine, it includes a selection of Japanese sake, a beverage he fell in love with during his time working in Asian restaurants in London. His time in Edinburgh sparked his passion for whisky, reflected in a selection that includes both Scottish and Japanese labels. The list also features a carefully curated selection of beers.

Besides Íñigo and Eden, the third vertex of Ekö Bistró is Alessandro Pardo, head bartender in charge of the cocktail menu that mixes great classics, proposals based on painting and poetry and mocktails, non-alcoholic but vibrant formulas, for all audiences.

The drinks menu is rounded off with a selection of top-quality coffees, teas, and infusions. The specialty coffee is served by Caffe Mood, while the teas and infusions come from the Strasbourg specialty shop Au Fond du Jardin, which has Ekö Bistro as its sole distributor in Spain.

The depth and breadth of the drinks menu allows Eden to experiment with unusual and groundbreaking pairings, ranging from a glass of wine to a cocktail, and including spirits, beer, or tea. A unique universe of pairings in Madrid.

A space open to everyone

If there was one thing Íñigo and Eden were clear about when they decided to open Ekö Bistro, it was that they wanted a space open to everyone, free from rigid schedules and the requirement to make reservations. That's why, in addition to the dining room with seating for 36 people, Ekö Bistro also has a bar area with a specially curated menu that can accommodate up to twenty people.

The bar menu defies clichés thanks to a selection of bites that avoids the usual and surprises, such as brioche with Flemish carbonade, shrimp croquettes, a selection of taramas – fish roe creams – from the prestigious Petrossian firm, or a cheese board, mainly French, carefully chosen by the Madrid gourmet shop Los quesos de l'Amelie.

Ekö Bistró also boasts a terrace with seating for 12, completing a space that caters to all types of customers. Every detail is meticulously considered, starting with the décor, which plays with black, white, and gray to create an atmosphere with a touch of industrial style, yet remains very welcoming. This same attention to detail is evident in the Kritikali tableware and the fine glassware.

“We are rebellious, natural, and authentic.” This is how Íñigo and Eden summarize the spirit of Ekö Bistró, a restaurant that makes the dream of these young men a reality: to create a gastronomic space that takes a journey between Spain and France destined to become a cult destination.

A bistro that celebrates the unexpected and the simple, where each service is a new page written between hands, fire and table.

At Ekö Bistro, the kitchen is a captured moment, a gesture suspended between seasons, origin and emotion.

Inspired by the market and poetry, we crossed France and Spain on a journey of lively and honest flavors.

Each dish is born from the product, the moment, and the desire to tell an ephemeral but unforgettable story.