Por qué es crucial añadir abundante roux al gumbo
El gumbo, uno de los platos más representativos de la cocina criolla y cajún de Nueva Orleans, no se entiende sin un buen roux.
The cuisine of the Creole and Cajun peoples is one of the best examples of the melting pot of cultural influences in the United States, and gumbo is its most emblematic dish. The Greater Iberia Chamber of Commerce states that the earliest versions likely originated in West Africa. According to the Southern Foodways Alliance, however, the first documented appearances of gumbo date back to New Orleans in the early 19th century.
Cookbooks that emerged decades later show how versatile the dish is, as it can be prepared with different meats and fish, such as duck and andouille sausage, or chicken and sausage.
Although the ingredients for gumbo aren't fixed, a good roux is essential. The Michelin Guide defines roux as a mixture of cooked flour and fat used to thicken sauces, but in gumbo it plays a unique role.
What is a roux?
Most people know roux for its ability to thicken sauces and broths. According to the Michelin Guide, when flour is cooked with fat before being added to the juices from cooking turkey or roast pork, the granules swell without clumping. The starch molecules are coated by the fat as they heat and mix, allowing them to absorb water from the juices and thicken the sauce.
Making a roux is a classic French technique, but the Cajun method differs in several ways. Atco Blue Flame Kitchen notes that French roux uses butter, while Cajun roux typically uses oil or lard. Cajun roux cooks to a dark brown color, while French roux develops light yellow and hazelnut hues. These fats have a higher smoke point, allowing the flour to cook longer. MasterClass adds that a darker roux produces a more complex flavor but reduces its thickening ability.
In gumbo, roux is primarily used for flavoring. According to Britannica, gumbo doesn't rely on roux for thickening because it typically contains okra, which becomes slippery and gelatinous when cooked. If okra is unavailable, filé, made from dried and pounded sassafras leaves, is traditionally added. This is a thickener that the Choctaw Native Americans used, according to Harvest to Table.
MasterClass is right that a dark roux isn't suitable for thickening the stew. Gumbo contains other ingredients that give it consistency, while a dark roux imparts a nutty, caramelized flavor that can only be achieved with long cooking times and oil or butter at the base.
