At two-star restaurant I Tenerumi, cooking takes place on a volcano with almost exclusively vegetables
A restaurant on a volcanic island, two Michelin stars, and a menu where vegetables take center stage. I Tenerumi on the Sicilian island of Vulcano is far from hip, yet it belongs to the highest echelons of Italian gastronomy. And on top of that, you dine outdoors under the stars.
Vulcano is one of the Aeolian Islands north of Sicily and is best known for its volcanic landscape. Not exactly the place where you would expect one of Italy's most extraordinary Michelin-starred establishments.
However, here you will find I Tenerumi, part of the Therasia Resort Sea & Spa. The restaurant now holds two Michelin stars and a Green Michelin star. In the Michelin Guide, the restaurant is listed as vegetarian.
No meat, no fish at I Tenerumi
Chef Davide Guidara has dedicated himself entirely to plant-based cuisine. At I Tenerumi, it is not about a classic meal where meat or fish is simply omitted, but rather vegetables take center stage as the starting point.
And that goes quite far. You won't find meat or fish on the menu, but neither will you find classic Italian pasta as an easy filling. Vegetables, legumes, herbs, and other plant-based ingredients receive all the attention.
Guidara employs techniques you would sooner expect for meat, fish, or dairy: fermentation, maceration, brining, and aging. In this way, seemingly simple ingredients gain much more depth and texture.
Vegetables from volcanic soil
The fact that I Tenerumi is located on Vulcano is no coincidence. Guidara cooks strongly inspired by the surrounding landscape. The volcanic soil, the Mediterranean climate, and the products of the island and small Sicilian producers form the starting point of his cuisine.
So, a courgette is not just a courgette. Through fermentation, marinating, or ripening, for example, such a vegetable can transform into something that, in terms of taste and texture, hardly resembles the ingredient it started with.
The resort's vegetable garden also plays a role in the cuisine. Michelin describes the dishes as technical and inventive, but at the same time strongly connected to the island.
Dining under the stars
Perhaps the best part of I Tenerumi: you dine outside. The restaurant serves a single surprise menu on the lawn, overlooking the coast and the Aeolian Islands. As darkness falls, the courses emerge from the open kitchen.
That makes the experience quite different from that of a classic Michelin-starred restaurant in a big city. No stately dining room, white tablecloths, and a view of a parking lot, but a table amidst greenery, the sea in the background, and the volcanic surroundings all around you.
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