A restaurant for everyone that focuses on the curiosity of young people

From a simple pen mark to a portion of the road to be traveled, or the line beyond which it is best not to go, the meanings are multiple.

I like to think of a facial or personality feature of friends who are dear to me.

Tratto restaurant in Turin was born from the union and dream of three friends: Luca Tomaino, Daniele Lanzolla, and Daniele Rasetto. Eros Pia is the owner, Tomaino is in the kitchen, and Lanzolla is the dining room manager.

Once focused on aperitifs and raw fish, and having experienced the champagne bar and the beautiful lounges of the city center, today Tratto is a contemporary restaurant on Via Andrea Doria in Turin.

Until eighteen months ago, there was no chimney and cooking was impossible, except with a brioche oven, a roner, and a Thermomix. A few dishes from year 0 remain on the menu, albeit with a more refined evolution thanks to the presence of the stove.

The name of the street recalls a stretch of sea and now that restaurant has drawn a line, a distinctive sign, something different from before.

After an internship with Gualtiero Marchesi and previous experience in Turin at Punto di Vista, Circolo dei Lettori, and Guarini, Luca Tomaino hasn't traveled the world, but he has a personal vision of it through the influences that reach Italy.

His cuisine begins with a study of the regions, then moves to the market, and is intrigued by what he finds. He has a visceral love for roast sauces, for stocks made with carcasses, and for crustaceans and mollusks.

The ingredients speak for themselves: Enrico Murdocco's bread; caviar and oysters by Mauro Pallottino of Royal di Rivalta, or fish selected from Verrini's own catch; anchovy sauce by Armatore in Cetara; and meat by Luca Brarda of Cavour.

"We went from a strange, fun place where I couldn't cook to another where I started practically from scratch," says Tomaino. "We don't label ourselves, but we feel like we're a restaurant for everyone, that does simple things and doesn't waste."

Let's talk about how complicated this job can be.

It's not easy to bring customers here, because Turin's people are unique, they're attached to their things, and we don't have a long history. We're focusing on young people, who are the future: we want them here because this is home and a convivial atmosphere, with something special that captivates you.

I ask him if he's referring to anything in particular, if there's an example he can give me.

"You can eat good raw ham anywhere, even here. I want to give you a few more sides. I like saltiness and acidity, and I'd like you to discover them."

Among the dishes I will try again are oysters and marrow.

Starting with a savory and meaty No. 1 or a double-ripened Papin, she strips it and uses the water, oil, and apple cider vinegar to marinate the sea asparagus. The mollusk is quickly browned in brown butter and covered in a béchamel sauce with Cantabrian anchovies and beef marrow, finished with a blowtorch.

I'd also like to try the cacio pepe and sea urchin risotto and the many other things you can still surprise me with.

I MENU

Two surprise offers, both including welcome snacks:

The Essence: two courses and a dessert – €45.

The Experience: five courses and a dessert – €80.

Snacks range from €6-16; appetizers range from €18-22; first courses from €20-25; and second courses from €20-30. Desserts are €10.

Bull shot

Following in the footsteps of the extravagant cocktail born in the United States as an unusual twist on the Bloody Mary, Luca Tomaino's Bull Shot harnesses the rich flavor of beef consommé, combined with vodka and lemon. It's housed in a ravioli, meant to be eaten in one bite. A Tratto signature.

Catch and Contrasts

Freshly caught sea bass served raw with three yogurt-based emulsions (parsley, tomato, squid ink) and raspberry vinegar. There's a fresh hint of aurora sauce, a savory mollusk note, and a third aromatic herb note. A fun way to present raw fish.

Shrimp and Yeast

Mazara red prawns are freshly coated with homemade sourdough starter powder to enhance the crustacean's flavor and fattiness.

Stun-N-ed veal

Beef carpaccio from Macelleria Brarda in Cavour, soy-marinated bonito, katsuobushi powder, anchovy sauce mayonnaise, and beef stock added at the end. Along with oysters and bone marrow, this is Tratto's signature dish.

The raw bonito is marinated in soy and remains incredibly tender, melting in your mouth; the beef is firm to the bite and lasts a long time: a winning combination of textures.

The roast jus whipped with salted butter is endless; the mayonnaise treated with rice vinegar refreshes with hints of citrus; the katsuobushi hits the mark with umami.

A very satisfying dish that is worth the trip.

Spaghetti with garlic, oil, chili pepper and bottarga

Unsalted pasta sautéed in tuna stock, drawn from the fish stock and mixed with butter, garlic ripened in oil, select chilli pepper and Carloforte red tuna bottarga.

A universe of aromas where all the ingredients fit together and are perfectly balanced; the end result is a very clean spiciness.

I pair it with a still rosé wine from Provence: a little liveliness would have cleansed the palate better, because the chili pepper lingers even after two sips.

Roasted chicken ravioli

Homemade ravioli filled with free-range chicken raised for three months and roasted, grilled Chinese-style and covered with its own roast sauce.

The pasta has the right consistency, the filling is flavored with ginger, spring onion, and cabbage, and the sauce is savory, rich, and thick.

An intense dish with great flavour, with the presence of vermouth in the base providing further added value.

Turbot, shellfish beurre blanc, Baeri caviar

The turbot is pan-seared with aromatic herbs and spring onions, served with shellfish beurre blanc and Baeri caviar.

The white fish is meaty and firm, delicious; the dish is savory with caviar, with a thick, rich sauce almost as if it were made with egg; the use of butter is textbook.

French style with great quality raw materials.

Crème brûlée

Fatty and dense thanks to the egg yolks and cream, with a very thin, crunchy caramelized crust. Delicious.

THE WINES OF MY DINNER

The wine list pays particular attention to France, leaving Piedmont and the rest of the world a more marginal focus.

At the beginning of September, some labels are missing and the list will need to be updated with new arrivals.

There are six options available by the glass and a large selection of Champagne.

Orior Brut Champagne – Pierre Legras

A cuvée of Chardonnay (54%), with equal parts Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The base wine is from the 2022 vintage, with just over a third being reserve wines. Disgorged in December 2024, it is very fine-grained in the bubbles and on the palate. Extremely pleasant and stylish. Priced by the glass at €18.

M 2024 – Minutes

A limited-edition AOP Cotes de Provence Rosé from a historic local winery that produces different varieties of Grenache, 60% of which is present here. The blend is rounded out with Syrah (20%), Cinsault (15%), and a touch of Tibouren (5%). Vinified perfectly dry, it has the alcohol content and strength to hold up well to a good meal. €10 per glass.

Birbet – Chicken

Sweet and fruity with strawberry and raspberry, it's a pleasant and simple way to end a great meal.

Tratto Restaurant Via Andrea Doria 12 – Turin