Reims: La Brasserie du Boulingrin, a century-old institution
Facing the iconic Boulingrin Market Hall, the Brasserie du Boulingrin is one of those establishments that tells the story of a city as much as it nourishes it.
In the kitchen, Chef David Champagne carries on the tradition of great French brasseries, with a generous menu focused on traditional ingredients and regional specialties. Seafood is a hallmark of the restaurant: oysters from Marennes-Oléron or Normandy, langoustines, whelks, shrimp, and platters to share. These are featured alongside snails with parsley butter, marinated herring fillets with Touquet potatoes, gratinéed bone marrow, and head cheese. The rest of the menu confirms this commitment to the recipes that have shaped the image of the great brasseries: calf's head with ravigote sauce, AAAAA andouillette sausage with whole-grain mustard, veal kidneys in Madeira sauce, sauerkraut, tartares, and sole meunière. Not forgetting the gratin dauphinois, which the restaurant features among its specialties. A traditional French cuisine, generous and deliberately cheeky, which Gault&Millau distinguishes with a score of 11/20 and the mention "Table Gourmande".
Among the menu's offerings, three dishes we tasted particularly exemplify the Boulingrin's culinary identity. For a starter, the homemade duck foie gras with ratafia and toasts celebrates the Champagne region through a regional specialty made from grape must and wine brandy. Next comes the veal sweetbread vol-au-vent with morels, accompanied by steamed rice, a dish emblematic of fine dining where the quality of the ingredients meets the indulgence of a traditional recipe. To conclude, the homemade Paris-Brest reflects the establishment's commitment to French pastry heritage. This selection allows us to appreciate the coherence of the menu, where Champagne specialties naturally find their place among the great classics of gastronomy. The restaurant also offers a brasserie menu for €27, including a starter, main course, dessert, and drinks, as well as a market menu for €36.
Laurent Fauvet, the art of service and conviviality at Boulingrin
In the dining room, Laurent Fauvet, assistant head waiter at Brasserie du Boulingrin, embodies the kind of brasserie service we love: professional, warm, attentive, with a touch of humor that transforms a meal into a truly convivial experience. His expertise was honed over a career in Michelin-starred establishments in the region, notably with Arnaud Lallement at L'Assiette Champenoise, at Le Millénaire with Laurent Reiss, and at Le Crypto restaurant, before joining Boulingrin. This experience has resulted in an in-depth knowledge of the products, the Champagne terroir, and its strengths, which he presents with enthusiasm and precision. It's safe to say that his recommendations sell! But his true talent also lies in his ability to create connections between tables. From one joke to the next, smiles are exchanged, glances are met between customers, and good cheer reigns supreme. With naturalness and elegance, Laurent Fauvet cultivates this art of hospitality where professionalism never excludes simplicity, closeness and the pleasure of sharing a good time.
A Reims institution founded in 1925
The story begins in 1925, when Élie Leleu founded the Brasserie du Boulingrin. His son, René Leleu, succeeded him, preserving the establishment's convivial atmosphere. Remarkably, the brasserie even predates the famous Boulingrin Market Hall, which opened four years later in 1929. In 1989, the Victor-Pujebet family took over the business and continued its legacy. Initially located at 48 rue de Mars, the brasserie moved from its historic location in 2013-2014, crossing the street to 31 rue de Mars, in another Art Deco building. This move of just a few dozen meters allowed it to remain at the heart of the neighborhood to which its name is inextricably linked. Today, under the direction of Alexandre Victor-Pujebet, the establishment cultivates this continuity while embracing the spirit of the times. A former tourism professional, who spent six years at the Lyon Tourist Office before joining the family business, he champions a traditional brasserie and old-fashioned service, complete with cloth tablecloths, jackets, and bow ties. Locals, regulars, professionals from Champagne houses, and visitors alike gather here in an atmosphere where the décor plays an integral part in the experience. Spread over two levels, the brasserie proudly displays its Art Deco heritage, with the Boulingrin Market Hall as its backdrop. More than just an address, it's an integral part of the urban landscape and the culinary history of Reims.
A century after its creation, the Brasserie du Boulingrin remains a must-visit destination on Reims' culinary scene. Its history, its unwavering commitment to its recipes, and the distinctive character of its service combine to create an experience where the pleasure of the food is complemented by the warm welcome. This establishment has transcended generations without losing its soul, and patrons return as readily to rediscover its classic dishes as for the sheer joy of being received.