Blouge wine: An alternative way to think pink

The pink wine category is still dominated by rosé, usually the palest styles, served very cold and often associated with one season – summer. But as we move into the cooler months, could we expand our expectations, explore different styles and confidently serve a glass of pink with a much wider range of food? Absolutely. This is where blouge wines come into the picture.

Blouge is an informal term used for wines that bring red and white grapes together, often through co-fermentation. The name may sound new, but the idea certainly isn’t. In Spain, for example, the historical tradition of clarete has long involved red and white grapes fermented together.

Blouge can certainly occupy some of the same space as rosé, but it can also expand it and offer something completely different. Depending on the grapes and winemaking, these wines can provide additional texture, a gentle tannic layer, savoury flavours and a broader aromatic profile. This gives them huge potential for food pairing while keeping the drinking experience simple and accessible.

Their versatility also widens the possibilities for service. Rather than automatically being served ice-cold, different styles can be served at different temperatures. A lighter blouge can work beautifully chilled as an apéritif or by the glass, while a more structured example can be allowed to warm slightly and follow guests into the meal. One bottle could potentially take a table from pre-dinner drinks to several different courses.

At the table, this combination of freshness and light structure creates plenty of possibilities. High acidity can cut through fried food or richer dishes, while gentle tannins give enough structure for poultry, pork or grilled food. More aromatic examples can work beautifully with Asian flavours and spice, while lighter styles can complement raw fish, charcuterie, tomatoes and Mediterranean vegetables. Blouge can therefore sit comfortably at a casual lunch, on a sharing menu or as part of a more structured food and wine pairing.

I tasted some interesting blouge wines over the past few weeks, including a 2021 rosé from Grange Saint-Sauveur in the Loire Valley, a blend of Grolleau Gris and Grolleau Noir. Its lovely salmon colour, good acidity and floral and savoury aromas worked beautifully with oysters and a potato rösti with caviar.

Another enjoyable wine was the 2021 Rioja Rosado Reserva from Alonso & Pedrajo Suañé, blending Viura and Sauvignon Blanc with Garnacha Tinta. This was a completely different expression, where structure and a gentle tannic layer took centre stage without a loss of vibrant freshness. I paired it with steak tartare and grilled king prawns, where the richness of the wine worked particularly well.

Blouge doesn’t need to replace rosé. Instead, it can challenge the idea of what a pink wine should look, taste and feel like. For sommeliers, it offers another versatile tool for the wine list; for guests, it offers something approachable enough to enjoy immediately, but different enough to start a conversation.

Beatrice Bessi is head sommelier at Chiltern Firehouse in Marylebone, London.