Bar Giorgio: Rivergaro ahora tiene un “bar de pueblo” con un toque gastronómico

Sooner or later, the time comes to reckon with one's history. Take Mattia Ferri, "Meppi," for the patrons of his Bitter, a venue in Piacenza, a meeting place for all lovers of good things. For years, with relentless determination, he has refined his gastronomic offerings with an increasingly focused and modern culinary philosophy, offering specialty coffees with the ease the industry needs to finally go mainstream, mixing flawless cocktails from an uncompromising bottle list, and, above all, pursuing an impressive career in wine, the fruit of an enviable palate and whispered with the understatement that is the house's signature.

What is the new Bar Giorgio like?

“Il Meppi” is therefore one of the wisest restaurateurs in the city, and the time was ripe for his approach to be brought into the original family business, where Martina is also part of the Ferri dynasty, together with Federico Cabrini, an experienced bartender in Piacenza.

We're talking about the historic Orso Bianco gelateria in Rivergaro, a small resort town along the Trebbia River, where the boundaries between the Piacenza hills and the Ligurian Apennines blur. Thus was born Bar Giorgio, the town's new, old establishment, finally returned to the public after months of renovations. The bar aims to address the perennial issue of renewing historic businesses and ensuring generational change. Starting with its name: that of the gelateria's founder and Ferri's grandfather.

One thing is immediately clear upon entering the bar: the work done to give the place a timeless atmosphere has been extensive, meticulously crafted, and spot-on. The references to the '70s and '80s are evident, from the vintage, creamy color palette to the furnishings, all free of folklore, nostalgia, or flea market signs.

There's texture, an imposing marble and wood counter, tiles, simplicity but not emptiness. And there are the carapina ice cream tubs, because, in the complex balancing act between old and new, the spirit of the gelateria and the laboratory, the kingdom of father Claudio, remain untouchable, as do the timeless gelato cups that seem to be making a comeback, but in reality were never gone.

What to eat and drink

A concise menu, as it should be, featuring carefully selected products from Piacenza's elite. Of course, the cured meats, on which Ferri has been carefully collaborating with producers and aging for years, the Viennese pastries from Ambrosia, the baked goods from Chomp, and the cuisine from La Batù Officina Gastronomica, with prices consistent with the idea of ​​maintaining the spirit of a local café. From €3 for bread, oil, and salt to €6 for a heartwarming 14-month-old coppa or Roman-style artichoke. For those seeking more substance, there's raw horse meat (strictly with garlic!), creamed cod with polenta, or meatballs in tomato sauce for €8 to €10.

A separate discussion concerns the toast, now a point of gastronomic and ideological contention. Here, they offer the one dressed in evening dress, "for gourmet assholes," as the owner puts it (a category to which this writer obviously belongs): shokupan stuffed with Capitelli's Proibita and Beaufort, with a side filling based, of course, on Bottega Pavesi's giardiniera. At €10, it's a small masterpiece of the genre. At lunch, they offer a €5 toast "because something has to stay popular," he says. I told you he was wise.

Behind the bar is another old acquaintance of Piacenza's bars: Gianluca Torreggiani, with a slim menu of signature cocktails (all €10), like the elegant and complex "Hojicha Chiedio," a sort of twist on Old Pal supported by toasted green tea, or the graceful "Fai Tu," a fresh reinterpretation of the Bloody Mary. All the classic Italian aperitivo drinks start at €6. All the coffee is from Piantagioni del Caffè; the classic cup is €1.40, and thank goodness, filter coffee is available for €3.

The feeling is that, despite the very recent reopening and the walls still smelling of paint, a Bar Giorgio has always existed here and, perhaps, there should be one in every town.