Vilmos Dohnal is head chef at Van de Werf: 'Everything starts with quality'

Origins 'I was born in Budapest and grew up on the outskirts of the city, which actually felt like a village. My childhood is a bit complicated, because my father passed away when I was seven. Still, I never really felt a loss because of it. My family took care of that. Uncles pitched in, and my mother, my brother, and my grandmother were always there. Cooking played a big role in my childhood. We picked berries in the garden, and there was always contact with food that came from close by. By the time I was thirteen, I knew I wanted to become a chef. I wasn't really good at anything else, but this just felt right.'

I learned discipline by doing the work over and over again every day.

Training ground 'My training at the Gundel Institute gave me a classical foundation. The training was strict and traditional, but exactly what I needed. During an internship at Hotel Astoria, I knew for sure that this was my world. After that, things moved quickly. I worked briefly in Budapest and left for Cyprus after a phone call from a former colleague. I hardly spoke any English and thought I already knew a thing or two, but I soon realized that I still had a lot to learn. That kitchen was incredibly tough. You worked long days and the pressure was high; everything had to be perfect. But it wasn't bad. I learned discipline there by doing the work day after day.'

Amsterdam 'After Cyprus and Ireland, I ended up in Amsterdam, actually by chance. I was here on holiday, met my girlfriend, and decided to stay. People said it would be difficult to get a job in a kitchen if you didn't speak Dutch, but I sent in an honest CV and was called immediately. I worked at Vermeer for thirteen years. What kept me there was the product. Vegetables from the land, pure meat and fish. That felt like home. It was a tough, but at the same time social kitchen. You could be yourself there and grow. That is where I really became a chef.'

I feel at home at Van de Werf

Van de Werf: 'After the pandemic, I noticed that my taste changed. I preferred eating in bistros and wine bars. The setting there is less stiff and more relaxed. When my chef Chris Naylor left Vermeer, it felt logical to move on as well. I wanted something different. A place where it's less about perfection for a small group and more about very good food for everyone. I have now found that at Van de Werf. It is more dynamic, and guests are quicker to say what they think. That makes it more honest. I feel more at home here now.'

Taste 'My goal with the menu at Van de Werf is simple. Good food without fuss. No gimmicks, but selecting strong products and seasoning them. I like working with local ingredients such as North Sea fish or vegetables from here and combining them with influences from outside. That is fitting for these times. Everything starts with quality. If you don't personally stand behind a product, you shouldn't use it. My advice: keep it simple and trust your taste. If you like something, you should dare to make it. That is why I even defend Hawaiian pizza. Not because I think it's amazing, but because it shows that cooking is also freedom.'