Salsa, a basic Mexican ingredient that gives a special touch to corn porridge

Mixed with boiling water or milk, salt, and a little butter, porridge becomes creamy in about as long as it takes to fry an egg. But it has little flavor beyond the corn and dairy, which becomes tiresome after a few spoonfuls. For those who find themselves staring at the cheese drawer halfway through their meal, the solution lies in the refrigerator: a jar of gravy.

Salsa solves several problems at once. Store-bought salsas are often quite acidic, thanks to the tomatoes or tomatillos and the lemon or vinegar they contain. Since plain corn grits have almost no acidity, the two complement each other perfectly. Salsa also adds texture, along with the characteristic spiciness of each brand. And if the grits contain cheese, the acidity and spiciness provide a welcome respite from the melted cheese.

Putting the sauce directly on the plate is the quickest way, and cold sauce on hot food works well. But if you have a few minutes to spare, it's worth mixing it in the pot: pour in a jar of thick sauce with a little chicken broth and simmer the semolina. It will be a bit thinner due to the tomato juice, so start with less broth, and the difference in flavor is noticeable.

Almost any open salsa from the fridge will do, though some pair better than others. Mild red salsa goes well with cheddar cheese grits and bacon. For a bolder flavor, pico de gallo, drained beforehand to avoid leaving a pool of tomato juice at the bottom, elevates plain grits. Green salsa with a little Monterey Jack cheese is a good choice if you're looking for tangy flavors.

Those looking for spicy flavors can choose sauces with árbol or chipotle chiles, or a salsa macha, which is chile oil with bits of fried garlic and seeds. It's best to add a small amount each time, even if you think you can handle spice well. Plain porridge is quite mild, so with too much sauce the corn flavor gets lost, and a dish where only the spiciness is noticeable isn't a good breakfast.