Osteria Gòto brings Italian lagoon cuisine to Paris's Boulevard Voltaire
Francesco La Porta runs this rustic-chic style establishment, where Alex Pedersoli, formerly at Septime, reinterprets Italian home cooking.
Osteria Gòto illuminates the area like the Venetian sun, with cicchetti, cocktails, and Italian wines. At the helm is Francesco La Porta, a fashion advertising director who left behind the gondolas of his native Veneto, but not his impeccable taste.
The restaurant is spacious and rustic-chic in style: open kitchen behind the large bar, brutalist-style tables, placemats in the form of lampshades, and toilets shaped like harlequins.
At the piano, Alex Pedersoli reinterprets traditional home cooking with a touch of acqua alta. One evening, the table shared a tempura-fried sweet and sour eggplant taco with an irresistible satay sauce, and the now-iconic tuna meatballs with harissa mayonnaise. Next came tuna tonnato: a vitello tonnato in which the veal is replaced with thin slices of raw tuna, accompanied by perfectly sautéed potatoes. For dessert, a memorable tiramisu.
To drink, aperitif cocktails such as bellini, negroni or americano (€12), and a selection of organic and natural Italian wines: Friuli Bianca (€10 a glass), Montepulciano d'Abruzzo red from Tiberio (€52 a bottle), orange vermentino from Senza Rete (€48) or Lambrusco from Podere Magia, in Emilia-Romagna (€40).
Set menus cost between €18 and €22 (weekday lunch), starters between €9 and €21, main courses between €22 and €32, and desserts €9.
A round trip from Paris to Venice, without stops or gondolas.