What is durian, the intensely smelled tropical fruit?
Expert Petty Pandean-Elliott, author of The Indonesian Table, explains why durian divides opinions because of its aroma and how to eat it.
“Unripe jackfruit is a perfect ingredient for cooking in curries and stews such as sayur asam, a mixed vegetable stew with young tamarind, shallots, chilies, shrimp paste, young papaya, melinjo leaves and corn,”
Known as the "king of fruits," the durian is a large, spiky tropical fruit native to Southeast Asia. Its thick rind ranges from dull green to yellowish-brown, and its custard-like flesh can be white or golden yellow. Inside the fruit, large, chestnut-colored seeds are contained in several pods.
“Durian is eaten when it’s ripe. If you find a ripe durian on the tree, you’re very lucky, as the shell, being heavy, usually cracks slightly when it falls,” explains Pandean-Elliott. Prices vary depending on the type, and those with more pulp than seeds are considered to be of better quality.
According to the expert, the pulp is sweet, with nutty, creamy, and vanilla flavors. When the fruit begins to ferment, "light yeasty notes" are perceived, and some people experience mild intoxication after eating several portions.
The smell, however, is divisive. Pandean-Elliott compares it to sulfur, blue cheese, very mature Camembert, or even socks, and acknowledges that it can be unpleasant and intense. In some Southeast Asian cities, it is prohibited to bring it into public buildings or onto public transportation.
Durian and jackfruit have a distinctive aroma when ripe, and both are used in desserts, ice cream, and sorbet. Jackfruit is distinguished by its less spiny rind and can be eaten green, in curries and stews such as gudeg, Java's most famous dry stew. Durian is rarely eaten green. The seeds of both fruits are edible and can be boiled until soft.
Once opened, the durian is eaten by hand. According to Pandean-Elliott, you twist a knife at the base and choose one of the five creases of the fruit to cut it from the base upwards. Each half has two compartments: you scoop out the pulp by hand, which includes a large seed, and so on in each compartment.
In Indonesia, durian is incorporated into traditional sweet and savory dishes. Teller, a shaved ice drink, combines young coconut with avocado and durian pulp, and is topped with condensed milk. Sambal tempoyak features fermented durian with freshly ground chilies. In contemporary cuisine, it appears in pancakes, crème brûlée, ice cream, and cheesecake.
Whole and uncut, durian keeps at room temperature for several weeks because it continues to ripen after harvesting. Cut and wrapped, it lasts up to five days in the refrigerator or a couple of months in the freezer, provided it's well wrapped to prevent the smell from spreading.