Cana, en la Colonia Juárez, reúne técnica y libertad en la cocina de Fabiola Escobosa
Con aire de bistró francés en una esquina del barrio Juárez, el restaurante de la chef Fabiola Escobosa presenta un menú de giros inesperados y una técnica sin florituras.
At first glance, Cana appears to be a French-style bistro on a charming corner in Colonia Juárez, but its menu has unexpected twists. Chef Fabiola Escobosa's hospitality and style transcend the conventional. She combines the comfort of certain dishes with the precision of haute cuisine, and her technique is displayed without unnecessary frills or pretensions.
The place is equally effortlessly elegant: it has spaces that offer privacy and romantic corners without being cheesy, and a bar in front of the kitchen where a burger is served, a detail that does not appear on the menu.
The menu also functions as Escobosa's autobiography. His training in New York with Ignacio Mattos, alongside his pastry chef mother, is evident; as is his home cooking in Mexicali, a vibrant border region with a cuisine influenced by Chinese cooking, close to Pacific seafood destinations like Ensenada; and his return to Mexico with Enrique Olvera's group. In this way, he brings together and reinterprets the best of different cultures and presents it on the table with style.
The in-house bakery showcases how the menu reflects its diverse influences. The cassava bread with ricotta is a nod to classic breads served, among other things, with coffee in countries like Colombia, Ecuador, and Brazil. Escobosa adds a touch of sweetness with a dollop of ricotta to spread on each bite.
There are also Asian touches, such as parsnip dumplings with dashi and fennel, or a classic jumbo shrimp cocktail with a hint of shiso. From classic European and Mexican cuisine, Escobosa chooses dishes like the Caesar salad, famous in Tijuana, which here is served with fresh, crisp lettuce, sprinkled with cheese, and an anchovy dressing that adds life and depth.
Among the main courses are a hand-cut beef tartare, a steak with fries, a very French dish, and the aforementioned hamburger. This is a finely crafted bun, where special attention is paid to the bread itself, topped with a perfectly cooked, juicy, and pink patty, slices of cheese, tomato, lettuce, and a crispy pickle.
The same principles apply to the wines: a minimal intervention strategy, without a strong allegiance to France or Europe in general. This leads to projects like a light cider, with barely 6% alcohol, made with apples and pears from Nopaltepec, or a Californian wine made in the style of sherry.
For dessert, Escobosa opts for indulgence, with a Basque cheesecake featuring a creamy center, somewhere between a mousse and a flan. For lighter desserts with a touch of plant-based flavor, there's a panna cotta with granita and fennel.