Contemporary French cuisine brightens up a quiet stretch of Sutter Street

Chef Bruno Chemel and his wife Christie were best known for Baumé in Palo Alto, which held two Michelin stars for nine consecutive years. The Chemels, along with their son Antoine, decided to leave those stars behind to open Le Parc Bistrobar, a French restaurant that retains some of the refinement that made Baumé a Michelin-starred favorite.

The star dish is oxtail in red wine ($67), with tender oxtail and carrots, served on mashed potatoes and bathed in red sauce. It includes two giant oxtails and their accompaniments.

Baumé snails ($23) are presented without their shells, cooked in an aromatic mixture of garlic, leeks and parsley, and served in a bowl with a wafer on top.

The snow eggs ($14), also called floating islands, are reinvented: instead of meringue, they are served in a footed glass bowl, with squares decorated with caramel, nuts and berries.

The menu serves lunch and dinner, with generous main courses of meat and fish at dinner prices. It's more suitable for a night out, although smaller dishes can also be ordered from the appetizer section.

Each month, the restaurant organizes a short-lived event dedicated to Baumé, with limited capacity.