Yume: El regalo de Niemeyer

At the first Yume, the foundations were laid for what would become Iratxe and Adrián's gastronomic dream. A natural, welcoming dining room with a warm, family atmosphere, customers bid Iratxe farewell with the warmth of family as they leave, a wine cellar based on a core belief: supporting small producers, and a kitchen that uses technique to explore creative ways of presenting ingredients. With the security of a solid foundation and its first recommendation in the Repsol Guide, Yume moved into a building designed by Niemeyer, one of the leading figures in 20th-century architecture.

Oscar Niemeyer was awarded the Pritzker Prize in 1988 and the Prince of Asturias Award in 1989. A few years later, as a token of gratitude, he sketched the project he would gift to the Principality. Conceived as a place for the arts and creativity, it was a dream for the city, a rejuvenating proposal that would revitalize its industrial character and complement the faded charm of its three historic centers. Indeed, the dream of Iratxe and Adrián is also rooted in the city's vision.

Today, Yume is an interesting option for those looking to discover gastronomic restaurants off the beaten path. Awarded one Repsol Sun in 2023, Adrián and Iratxe's approach is based on keeping a low profile and trusting their method. Their focus is on dishes featuring one or two ingredients, technically exploring the possibilities of each ingredient, whether humble or noble. A prime example, still on their menu (though only for a short time, according to Adrián), is the onion dish, where the entire onion is served in almost contrasting ways using different techniques: a pickled onion heart, a panna cotta inoculated with Penicillium camemberti, and coated with its characteristic white skin, and a dense, dark-colored, concentrated sauce of caramelized onion.

With affordable prices, €30 for the lunchtime set menu and €80 for the longer tasting menu, the tasting menu consists of approximately 14 courses, ranging from sweet snacks to petit fours. According to the team, the menu is constantly changing to reflect seasonality and foster creativity, promoting the use of local and seasonal produce. While not explicitly stated, their commitment to sustainability lies in maximizing the potential of each ingredient, often manifested in a menu of sequences or complementary dishes. For example, the bonito and koji: an ice dish containing bonito ribeye (inoculated with koji) and seafood jus, a deep dish with bonito ribeye infused with koji horchata, an amazake, and a gladiolus flower filled with tuna belly marinated in sake. The final savory course returns to simplicity with a beef tongue, served with a Parmesan demi-glace. In the dessert section, a very unsweet proposal that begins with a first dessert of white asparagus ice cream - from when they were available in the region - with elderflower and a second dessert of Penicillum camemberti crêpe suzette with mandarin and olive oil.

The winery, comprised solely of small selections (fewer than 3,000 bottles) from a mix of local, national, and international producers, pursues original and distinctive projects. In Iratxe's words, "Good wine is made everywhere, so to be included in Yume, the winery has to have soul." Again, the wine list features affordable selections alongside more exclusive options, ranging from €19 to €800.

YUME Restaurant

Address: Niemeyer Tower, Zinc Avenue, No Number, Asturias.