Antica Trattoria di Sacerno, reseña: delicioso marisco de la zona baja de Bolonia

The restaurant is located about a quarter of an hour's drive from Bologna, on the edge of the lower plain in Sacerno, a hamlet of Calderara di Reno. Housed in an old farmhouse near the church, Antica Trattoria Di Sacerno is undoubtedly the main attraction of this village of narrow streets, country houses, and fields as flat as billiard tables. Despite being well outside the city center, it's one of the places known and recommended by all Bolognese for seafood, and let's face it, eating good seafood in Bologna isn't always easy. Perhaps it's the proximity to the Romagna coast, where people usually pop in, even in winter, for a Sunday feast, but also because the exuberant (in the literal sense of the word) traditional Bolognese cuisine leaves little room for seafood specialties, or rather, ignores them altogether.

The dining room is unique, large but not overly so, with tables set with classic, flawless white tablecloths. Dario Picchiotti, the Osteria's owner and chef, welcomes us, generous with advice and explanations throughout the dinner. The atmosphere is deliberately informal, and Picchiotti's sincere and direct nature embodies the restaurant's philosophy: careful selection of ingredients, carefully crafted dishes that are certainly not banal, but have a solid foundation and a genuine air.

The menu is limited, with four or five choices per course, perfectly in keeping with the restaurant's style and offerings. But rest assured: if you're looking for a quick plate of spaghetti with clams, the kitchen will be happy to accommodate you. The wine list is by no means limited, however, and, in addition to a selection of national labels, also includes an extensive champagne list.

A special mention also goes to the bread, which is handcrafted by their Bolognese workshop, Merlino il mago della farina (the flour wizard), which, in addition to their own kitchen, supplies several restaurants in the city. Once the usual formalities are completed, we're greeted with a welcome drink titled "Viva la patata" (Long Live the Potato), featuring the tuber presented in three different ways, especially the soft and flavorful Duchess potato with mussel and clam powder.

But what better way to test the cuisine than to start with the raw seafood? Gran crudo di Sacerno (€48), a selection of shellfish (€38), and carpaccio (€35): the choice is worth it, and the raw seafood lives up to the restaurant's reputation. Classics like amberjack, snapper, and swordfish are also included in the carpaccio, and we're happy to hear they've forgoed the highly sought-after tuna, a target of indiscriminate fishing, in favor of species that may be less well-known but are equally culinary. Shellfish-wise, you can enjoy scampi, pink shrimp, purple shrimp, prawns, and the always-wonderful red shrimp, a true delight for the palate. All the fish comes from Sicily except the scampi, which is sourced from Scotland.

Among the appetizers, the excellent mackerel with charred leek, barley miso colored with red onion and ginger (€22) is also noteworthy. It rivals even the most prestigious dishes and captures the full character of this blue fish, with its intense and lingering flavor. Incidentally, in recent years, this quintessential humble fish has been enjoying a welcome revival in fine dining, with interesting twists that enhance its distinctive aroma, fatty flesh, and meaty texture.

Among the first courses, the simplicity of the linguine with mantis shrimp, spinach, chilli and lemon (20 euros) wins hands down in my personal taste, but also noteworthy are the ricotta tortelloni with butter and sea gold (22 euros), a variation on the classic Bolognese stuffed pasta in which the red tomato is replaced with an extract of red prawns and oyster butter, as well as the potato gnocchi with scallops, smoked broccoli and parmesan (20 euros) which I found excessively delicate.

As for the second courses, the most fun and unexpected is the fake cotechino with minced octopus and pork, and the fake skin made from an outer layer of filo pastry, accompanied by the (obligatory) lentils and crispy cabbage (26 euros). Both fried dishes are worth trying: the classic mixed vegetables (25 euros), dry, crunchy, and fragrant, and the tentacle version (28 euros) served with various sauces (chimichurri, teriyaki, and mayonnaise). If you're looking for a lighter option and want to enjoy the full flavor of shellfish, you can't miss the scampi with vegetable ceviche (36 euros).

To finish on a high note, we discover that even the desserts are in great shape, from the perfect mascarpone with a slightly more choreographic plating than usual, to the cocoa variations on the (recommended) yogurt cream, bitter orange sorbet and fresh and fragrant biscuit (all 10 euros).

The bill isn't the lightest, and the slightly overpriced raw fish will certainly raise it, but those who want to enjoy a dinner without breaking the bank can opt for an attractive tasting menu featuring 4, 5, 6, or 7 courses of your choice (served to the entire table) for 58, 68, 75, and 80 euros per person, respectively. Research is evident at every level in the kitchen at Antica Osteria di Sacerno, from the quality of the fish and the pairings to the cooking techniques, extraction, and drying of seafood aromas. The result is elegant dishes that don't seem so, and are particularly appreciated for their approach to experimentation, which is never risky or an end in itself.

Opinion

A favorite destination for Bolognese people seeking unconventional seafood cuisine. It offers creativity, built on a solid foundation of select ingredients and expert hands in the kitchen, creating original yet unconventional combinations.

AGAINST

• the quality/price ratio is a bit unbalanced