Sinofos Restaurant, 21-button “casual” gastronomy

An exponent of what could be called gastronomic Neoclassicism (as a reinterpretation of great classical cuisine from the present day), Sinofos is one of the examples of relaxed haute cuisine, this type of restaurant that has been abundant for a decade, in which finding an excellent wine list is not incompatible with eating on a stool, an excellent product is accompanied by a good hand, and despite the young age of the team, the savoir-faire is enormous.

Nothing strident, nothing offensive, good principles and better foundations, the cuisine that vindicates cuisine; dishes that are flavor, stew and juice, from a lightened and multicultural retrospective view.

Led by Marc Ramos (33), a dazzlingly young and powerful team orchestrates the Sinofos menu, with an offering that surprises with its conciseness; 24 dishes that are arranged in six categories: deli, vegetables, classics, offal, rice and pasta (and a long list of grilled dishes); in which we find origin (sobrasada from Cal Rovira, Arturo Sánchez ham, Galician old cow, Blanes prawn, sea cucumbers, Girona veal,…); singularity (celeriac doner, mushroom brioche roll, lettuce hearts with beurre Blanc and Blanes prawn,…) and mastery of fire (rice dishes, grilled dishes,…).

On a personal note, I met Marc almost 10 years ago, when I was 26 and he was 25, and he was Harry Wieding's second-in-command, who was then the chef at the Mercer Hotel. At 25, Marc struck me as a culinary prodigy, not only for his work but also for his ability to connect with a team and lead his colleagues.

Capable of constantly demanding the best, Marc was good at both correcting and making people laugh; and he had a rare ability to scold and reconcile, with a unique naturalness and charisma.

Perhaps precisely because of that great personality, Sinofos has not a centimeter of separation between the kitchen and the dining room, so that part of the experience consists of witnessing that energy between seriousness and jokes, between rigor and humor, which is contagious through cooks, waiters and sommeliers, and is perhaps partly responsible for a great meal.

Located in the center of Girona and immediate neighbor of Casa Cacao, Sinofos has made it into the great word-of-mouth guide of Girona to the point of seating the Roca brothers at its tables; chefs from all over the province and local and foreign food lovers.

In addition to Sinofos, Marc Ramos manages the gastronomic and urban fockviu, a burger joint so close to and yet so far from the fast food concept that, besides being on the route of any burger lover, it should be on the list of those who are driven by the product and the technique.

For those visiting Sinofos for the first time, in addition to a feast of quality ingredients, prawns, oysters, foie gras, mussels, and more, and expertly grilled dishes, the best advice would undoubtedly be to let the kitchen guide you and prioritize the seasonal and signature dishes, such as their Maresme pea stew with Catalan sausage and truffle (with a perfectly balanced aniseed note, a crispy and fresh texture, and a rich, creamy base); their grilled cabbage with vinaigrette, egg yolk, peanuts, and piparras peppers (with a smoky aroma and a perfect balance of fat, acidity, and spiciness); or their braised tendons with black turnip. An unmissable section, one that you absolutely must try, is the offal.

In its menu, four fixed dishes of offal demonstrate Sinofos's look back, and remind us of its character, which translates into bites of tradition and current trends in equal parts, such as the Ssaam of breaded lamb brains, a light, crispy and fresh way of serving this classic.

In the dessert section, a perfect selection of options to finish the meal, where the sweetness doesn't preclude the bold: French toast with chocolate sorbet, grilled panettone (Rocambolesc), chocolate cake or banana split, all well executed and with some unique touches, maintaining that gastronomic neoclassicism until the very end.

And finally, the origin of the name. El banc del si no fos (literally the bench of what if it weren't), is what the benches where the elderly and retirees, retired fishermen and other melancholic people sat to talk about their ailments, contemplate the city or the sea or talk about what life would be like if it weren't for what it is, were called on the Balearic and Catalan coasts.

Nostalgia in the name, nostalgia on the plate. If it weren't for Sinofos, Sinofos would be unthinkable.