Botoi Milano, a perfect neighborhood bistro, or rather a free and informal wine bar
Botoi Milano has been there for a couple of years, quietly, to the delight of the few who know and appreciate it (it was among the first to be mentioned on CiboToday, and it still has zero reviews on Tripadvisor).
The inspiration is threefold: French wine bars (the Parisian Frenchie comes to mind), also for its focus on wines, but also Venetian bàcari. The name, Botoi, is actually that of a species of Venetian artichoke. Threefold, as we said, because the Italian market-fresh menu also features surprising dishes reminiscent of the Middle East. But let's take a closer look at how our dinner went in what we would call, ultimately choosing a street, a neighborhood bistro.
The place
Ten seats, as we said, arranged around an open kitchen. Truly not enough, especially considering there's only one evening sitting. We're worried about the business plan, but we appreciate it. The kitchen, as we said, takes up a large space, as if to say that, after all, it's the most important thing in a restaurant and shouldn't be sacrificed. In the background, a Kokko, a small, French-made oven for barbecue and smoking, is visible. On the walls, a few small paintings: tarot cards, a French cheese list, animals. A shelf with books and another with spices, among which savory stands out. The floor is antique, with blue and white squares. The chairs are 1960s-style, kitchen-style. Nothing refined or elegant, in fact, a bit too bare: a humble but honest room, as Smorfia would have said.
The chef
A short bearded man with round, intellectual glasses, polite but reserved, nothing like the overly gruff or overly jovial innkeepers. He speaks little, but otherwise has a lot to do (his wife only comes to help him on weekends, but perhaps a young man's help in the dining room would also improve the atmosphere). A self-taught chef, he trained in the kitchens of Nuovo Macello before setting out on his own.
The menu
Short, unstructured, original. There are eight to ten dishes, without any division. Very vegetal, not very carnivorous.
Among the must-try dishes is the long-fermented focaccia, with stewed onions, black olives, and anchovies. A soft, airy, and long-leavened focaccia (€7).
We sampled broad beans, green beans, artichokes, and pea sauce (€10). A well-constructed, balanced dish, with perfect artichokes (botoi, after all).
The guinea fowl skewers are less impressive, but they are accompanied by yellow carrots that will amaze you with their deliciousness.
Perfect balance between the saucy flavour of the pickled mackerel (marinated in vinegar) and the freshness of the cucumber and puntarelle.
The wines
Lodovico is a sommelier and, above all, cares about wine, so no endless menus filled with just any old favorites, just to please everyone. Instead, he's opting for a short, constantly updated menu, featuring wines hand-picked from lesser-known grape varieties and regions, with a predominance of natural wines. Prices are moderate, starting at €24 for whites and starting at €22 for reds.
I count
More than fair, considering the care and sourcing of the ingredients. Two dishes are enough to satisfy even those who aren't affected by tapeworm, and that brings the price to around twenty euros. Considering that bread (from Slow Bread Lab, on Via Maiocchi) costs €1.50, and 50 cl of water does too, and considering there's no cover charge, you can stay, and a bottle of wine for two will cost around €30-40 each.
Botoi Milano, Piazzale Lavater 2 (but it is actually at the beginning of Via Ramazzini), tel 339 212 8250.