In the hustle and bustle around the Vatican, there's a small wine shop worth checking out: 400 labels and a selection of wines at very reasonable prices

Opening a micro winery just steps from the Vatican to bring quality to a hyper-tourist area? A bold, very bold choice. Yet there are those who took the risk. The project is called Vineria Risorgimento, named after the square it overlooks, Piazza Risorgimento, in the space formerly occupied by Pergamino.

And it's precisely from the vision of Luigi Parise (also behind Morrison's and Be.Re), the first to bring specialty coffee to Rome, that this place was born. Sirio Di Francesco, Parise's partner in this new adventure, which began in August 2025, tells us about it. "Even today, several months later, people come in here and, without even looking around, ask for a coffee," jokes Di Francesco, who got into the industry thanks to craft beers, then opened Argot Prati and, in the meantime, was captivated by wine, studying and tasting as much as possible.

What to drink at Vineria Risorgimento in Rome

The decision to open in August, with Rome almost empty, was also a way to get a feel for the place: to understand the flow of visitors, to observe the crowds—in other words, to "get a feel for it," as the insiders say. After a few months, the identity has become clearer, even to those who pass by. The stated goal? To work on wine with depth, without adapting to the local norms.

The result is a small place, as anyone who's ever been to Pergamino knows: fewer than 30 seats in total, between inside and outside, with three seats at the bar and a few tables, but a wine list that boasts around 400 wines. The selection follows a precise line: no chasing trends, no labels chosen "because they sell." Here, the focus is on producers and territories, on wines that express the interaction between the place and the hand of those who work it, the so-called terroir. "I like to talk about artisanal wine," says Di Francesco, "with a very concrete idea of ​​production consistency." Italy and much of France occupy the bulk of the list, with a few forays into other European countries, and a constant presence of Lazio as well.

The selection process is handled by Di Francesco, a passionate and meticulously skilled man who describes each bottle without force, but with an immediately perceptible conviction. The wine found here is what he likes, without major compromises.

The great wine bar at Vineria Risorgimento in Rome

The draft beer plays a key role, surprising us with its absolutely fair prices: prices start at €7 and go up to €10, with a frequently changing selection that always includes some Lazio specialties. It's one of the ways the establishment is trying to break a widespread habit in the city center: automatically associating location with high prices. They're also expected to soon be working with the Coravin, which will allow larger bottles to be opened without having to permanently include them on the menu.

The idea, ultimately, is simple: create a place where you can enter without too much fuss. Stop for a quick 15-minute drink or stay longer, without feeling like you have to "consume." A place where wine is the reason you come, but also accessible to those who simply want to drink well.

What to eat at Vineria Risorgimento in Rome

The cuisine follows the same logic. It is deliberately secondary, designed to accompany and not to divert attention. The menu is short and built on a selection of cured meats (20 euros) and cheeses (18), with a good presence of Lazio products (Tenuta Il Radichino) and Beppe Giovale's specialties, then pickles and simple preparations, such as smoked goose breast (13) with bread from Panificio Marè and eggs in purgatory (14), as well as some more substantial options such as the delicious sandwiches (here they call them padellotti). Everything works as a support: good, well-prepared, but without the ambition of stealing the show.

In a space dominated by a wall of bottles, where every label is visible, the message is quite clear: you come here to drink. And to do so calmly, even in one of the city's busiest areas.

Vineria Risorgimento. Piazza Risorgimento 7, Rome. Tel. 06 89533745. Instagram. Open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight.