Leartá: experiencing Andalusia without leaving Seville

Savoring the flavors of Andalusia in eleven bites of haute cuisine in the heart of Seville is now possible thanks to the recent opening of Leartá, one of the most talked-about restaurants in the Andalusian capital in 2024. In just a few weeks since opening its doors, it has already attracted the attention of the most relevant figures in the sector, and here we'll tell you why.

Leartá was created by a group of four friends with extensive experience in haute cuisine, who strive to offer a distinctive and high-quality experience. The founders are Manu Lachica and Rita Llanes, both chefs focused on reinterpreting Sevillian cuisine with contemporary touches; Eliel Varela, sommelier; and Rosana de la Cruz, a pastry specialist. Together, they have created a space that blends tradition and modernity in a small, elegant, and refined setting designed for tranquility, as it accommodates only five tables.

At Leartá, the tasting menu unfolds like a symphony of Andalusian flavors, meticulously orchestrated by the chefs, who have woven their experience in starred temples such as Culler de Pau**, Bagá*, Lasarte*** or Tohqa* into every bite they offer.

In the purest Bagá style (Jaén), Leartá's tasting menu, consisting of eleven courses priced at 70 euros, showcases a masterful combination of just two or three ingredients per dish. This selection reveals a complexity and elegance rarely seen in the city, transcending its deceptive simplicity and offering a gastronomic experience as refined as it is meticulously crafted.

Each dish at Leartá redefines the trend of local sourcing; it masterfully embodies this approach, justifying each choice with the freshness and unique character of its suppliers. The duality of the Andalusian landscape, between mountains and sea, also permeates the menu, offering not only an echo of its geography in several courses, but also a fusion of flavors from the land and sea.

The gastronomic journey through the region begins with a starter of lupin beans and olives, encapsulating the essence of Seville and making a clear statement of intent. This is followed by a salad of regañás (crispy breadsticks) with herbs, providing freshness and a crunchy texture. As the menu progresses, standout creations include tomato with manteca colorá (a type of lard) served alongside an impeccably prepared mollete (a type of bread roll), a tribute to Isla Cristina with tuna "skin," cucumber, and green sauce, and cod with snails, which highlights the springtime flavors of Seville's bars.

Other dishes, such as the sunflower stew with sheep, transport diners to an idyllic Andalusian countryside, offering a mild but profoundly rich flavor, often enhanced by the marine touch that is given to many of them.

Refined techniques, acquired in prestigious restaurants, are applied here to elevate humble ingredients to surprising gastronomic heights, achieving a balance between innovation and authenticity. This menu is not just a meal; it is a journey through the geography and culture of Andalusia, told through its flavors, colors, and textures.

Sommelier Eliel Varela manages Leartá's wine cellar, focusing on Andalusian wines and highlighting local options that exquisitely complement the restaurant's cuisine. The selection ranges from traditional fortified wines to contemporary labels, emphasizing quality and uniqueness. Varela's skill in pairing these wines with the menu items showcases his expertise and enhances the diner's gastronomic experience, complemented by house-made non-alcoholic beverages and specialty coffee to finish.

Moving on to the sweet part, Rosana de la Cruz, the pastry chef, brings an innovative freshness to the desserts. Her creations are elegant and modern, surprising diners with offerings like celery with lees or anise with quince, which provide a moderately sweet finish, perfect for the tasting experience. Her skill in combining textures and flavors transforms each dessert into a small edible work of art.

Leartá's restaurant is a direct reflection of its cuisine: a small, meticulously designed space where modernity meets Andalusian warmth. Designed to accommodate only five tables, the ambiance fosters an exclusive and tranquil experience. Details such as soft lighting and minimalist yet elegant furnishings complement the intimate atmosphere, creating the perfect setting where complex flavors and haute cuisine take center stage.

In short, Leartá has established itself as a must-visit fine dining destination in Seville, where every dish is a love letter to Andalusia, both in its ingredients and inspiration. The sommelier's wine selection and innovative desserts add further layers of delight, rounding out a menu that is both a tribute to tradition and a bold statement of modernity.