The winners of a Macarfi that continues to grow
In the constellation of guides, lists, and awards that lend prestige to the culinary world, one name has gained considerable prominence in recent years, starting practically from scratch.
In the constellation of guides, lists, and awards that lend prestige to the culinary world, one name has gained considerable prominence in recent years, starting practically from scratch. Macarfi, an acronym of its founder, Manuel Carreras Fisas, began by asking for recommendations from food-loving friends to create, in the style of the Anglo-Saxon publication Zagat, a guide that reflected the opinions of food enthusiasts. Less than a decade after its founding, it brought together in Málaga a group of prestigious chefs and members of the specialized press so large that it gives an idea of its influence.
After its initial limited editions in Barcelona, Macarfi began an expansion process in 2017 that took it first to Madrid, then to the Basque Country in 2021, and finally to La Rioja and Girona last year. This time, it adds the provinces of Málaga and Valencia, two major gastronomic hubs, and announces its ambition to become a national guide by 2025.
The latest publication includes up to 550 entries, arranged in an absolute ranking of the 50 best restaurants in each province, but also classified according to cuisine, location, decor, ambiance, and specialties. The result is a highly diverse collection of restaurants of varying levels, where popular fare blends seamlessly with haute cuisine, and traditional and modern elements, and which don't always reflect the public profile of the chefs involved.
Leading the regional top 10
Madrid's Desde 1911, Barcelona's Cocina Hermanos Torres, Vizcaya's Asador Etxebarri, Gipuzkoa's Elkano, Alava's Arrea!, El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, El Portal de Echaurren in La Rioja, Malaga's Bardal and Valencia's Ricard Camarena Restaurant were the big winners of a gala that also recognized OSA (Madrid), Azul Rooftop Barceloneta (Barcelona) and Bakea (Mungia, Vizcaya) as the most interesting openings of the year.
The guide's short but intense history already allows us to view its listings with some perspective. In Madrid, Saddle has relinquished the top spot it held last year to the unstoppable success of Desde 1911, the flagship restaurant of the Pescaderías Coruñesas group. Ugo Chan completes the podium, followed by Coque, owned by the Sandoval brothers, the Madrid branch of Estimar, by Rafa Zafra, and Smoked Room, by Dani García. The rest of the top 10 is filled by such diverse projects as La Tasquita de Enfrente, Horcher, Sacha, and El Corral de La Morería.
In Barcelona, Cocina Hermanos Torres leads the way, climbing from 5th to 1st place after the attention it received last year when it earned its third star in the competitor's guide. It is followed by Alkimia, Estimar, and Vía Veneto, which all secured the top three spots last year. Gresca is fifth, Can Jubany sixth, and Al Kostat seventh. Rounding out the top ten are Enigma, by Albert Adrià, Dos Palillos, and Aürt. In Biscay and Gipuzkoa, there are few changes at the top; Asador Etxebarri is number 1 in Biscay for the third time and, according to the guide's rules, will move to the non-competitive Top of the Tops category in the next edition, joining DiverXO and Disfrutar. Azurmendi, Nerua, and Mina follow. Garena is fifth, Porrue sixth, ahead of La Despensa de Etxanobe, Kuma, and Aitor Rauleaga. Islares enters the top 10.
In Gipuzkoa, Elkano retains its top spot, followed by legendary restaurants like Arzak, Akelarre, and Martín Berasategui. Amelia by Paulo Airaudo occupies fifth place, followed by Mugaritz, Rekondo, and Narru, as well as Ama Tolosa and Casa Urola. The Álava ranking is once again led by Arrea!, followed by Kromatiko, the historic Zaldiaran, and Kea Basque Fine Food. Next are Amelibia, El Puntido, Bideko, Tierra y Vino, Marqués de Riscal, and El Clarete.
In La Rioja, El Portal de Echaurren reigns supreme, followed by Venta Moncalvillo, Alameda, and Echaurren Tradición. Next on the list are Kiro Sushi, Nublo, Ikaro, Aitor Esnal, Ajonegro, and Casa Masip. El Celler de Can Roca tops the Girona list for the second year running, followed by Ca L'Enric, Miramar, Les Cols, Bo.Tic, Els Tinars, L'Alianca d'Anglès, El Motel, Serendipia, and Candlelight by Roman Fornell.
Valencia makes its debut in the guide, with Ricard Camarena Restaurant taking the top spot, followed by La Salita and Fierro. Outside the top three are Arrels, Kaido Sushi Bar, Saiti, El Bressol, Nozomi Sushi Bar, Lienzo, and El Poblet. In Málaga, Bardal is the winner, followed by Kaleja and Los Marinos José. Rounding out the top 10 are Back, Skina, El Lago, La Milla, Nintai, José Carlos García, and Kava.
Macarfi also presents the Rookies Awards to the most exciting new openings of the year. OSA, Velascoabellà, Bascoat, Ta-Kumi, and Haramboure were recognized in Madrid. Azul Rooftop Barceloneta, Colmado Múrria, Casa Parera, Bravo, and Present were honored in Barcelona, while Bakea, Artean Barra Abierta, Lasai, Lamaskerida de Gros, and Asador Olivi were named the openings of the year in the Basque Country.
