At Origine Milano, the contemporary tradition of a young chef

All'Origine Milano. Traditional, yet with a contemporary twist: this sums up the character of All'Origine restaurant, led by young chef Fabio Titone, a promising 25-year-old. The restaurant is located at the end of Via Lamarmora, a long street that runs from Corso di Porta Romana behind the Policlinico Hospital and the Courthouse, before flowing onto Viale Regina Margherita. Busy and busy during the day, the street takes on a tranquil stillness at night, interrupted only by the clatter of trams. This dual spirit extends to the restaurant: at lunchtime, it's popular with lawyers, magistrates, and doctors; after sunset, it's the perfect spot for intimate dinners.

Originally, there was a menu

The chef and owner's tender age, far from being a limitation, is actually a spur to creativity. He doesn't forget his Sicilian origins, nor his time in Turin (he worked alongside Alfredo Russo at Dolce Stil Novo, in the Reggia di Venaria). Thus, the meal begins with a series of entertaining amuse-bouche, offered at the table while waiting for orders. Standouts include the ricotta cream with hollandaise sauce, a lovely blend of sweetness and acidity, and the savory Bacio di Dama with cacio e pepe, a small explosion of flavor.

Contrasts, surprises, and spherifications are three recurring themes in the chef's cuisine. This is demonstrated with his signature appetizer: Chianina beef tartare (€18), served over roasted ossobuco with balsamic vinegar caviar and Parmesan ice cream. The cheese is worked into irregular, fresh, and savory flakes, the meat is pounded with a knife, and the marrow is still warm in the bone: an unexpected and enjoyable dish.

From the fresh fish display come the ingredients for the most Mediterranean appetizers: Sicilian scampi paired with foie gras (23 euros), Mazara prawns stuffed with courgette flowers (15 euros) and cod, which becomes a cappuccino with potato mousse (12 euros).

Another of Titone's obsessions is making as much homemade food as possible. So, aside from rice (on the menu, Vialone Nano with saffron gel, gorgonzola, and flambéed scampi, €17), the first courses are 100% homemade, including the semolina pasta, drawn in-house. We tried the ricotta gnocchi on a cream of peas and clams (€15) and the ravioli filled with boiled meat and a hint of lime (€18): sea and land, one by one, the ball in the center.

Even the second courses reflect a passion for the finest ingredients. Thus, alongside the double-cooked octopus with salsa verde, tomato concassé, and granita (€16, the most popular dish of the evening), there's a boiled, unboiled cheek coated in Nebbiolo (€20), a favorite among those who chose meat over fish.

All'Origine, wines and desserts

Speaking of wines, the selection of glasses (€7-16) is excellent, using the Coravin system, which preserves the organoleptic qualities of opened bottles. This attention to detail is not available to everyone, allowing you to enjoy even large glasses without breaking the bank on the bottle.

Desserts (€6) round out the dinner with a light touch. The double-texture chocolate (mousse and "salami"), refreshed by beetroot ice cream, is very enjoyable. The sage semifreddo, meanwhile, cleanses the palate beautifully after so many delicacies. If we had to make a point, it's that there's still a bit of naiveté, especially in the plating and some recurring ingredients. But there's plenty to work on. Young chefs will grow.

At the Origin, Via Lamarmora 36, ​​Milan. Tel. 02 5464312, Website.