A weekend savoring Oaxaca: a gastronomic itinerary to enjoy the Guelaguetza
Oaxaca, a magical and emblematic land. Here, culture and tradition permeate everything. Food is not just a daily necessity; it's an expression of identity that is constantly being rebuilt.
Unique flavors can be savored in the state; Oaxacan traditional cuisine is one of Mexico's most representative culinary traditions. This is showcased at its finest each year during the Guelaguetza festival, which began on July 22nd and concludes on the 29th. The ingredients and preparation techniques reflect the state's rich cultural heritage.
A celebration that allows the people of Oaxaca to immerse themselves in their own traditions and preserve them. Iconic dishes and traditional drinks can be enjoyed at this time of year. Oaxaca's gastronomy is a true reflection of its people and the region's geographical conditions.
Discover the most important culinary traditions of Oaxaca on this weekend culinary route to enjoy the Guelaguetza festival.
Friday: Start your culinary route in Oaxaca
Upon arriving in the city, you'll notice its streets constantly filled with aromas. Oaxacan cuisine is experienced at home, but also on the streets. Begin this adventure with a tlayuda, probably the highlight of this culinary route to enjoy the Guelaguetza festival.
Friday night, dinner is served. The traditional tlayuda is a nearly 30 cm corn tortilla. It's usually toasted on a griddle, giving it an unusual, crispy texture. Then it's topped with pork cracklings, Oaxaca cheese, lettuce, and dried beef, accompanied by radish. A true delicacy you can't miss on your adventure.
If it's not prepared this way, you're not experiencing the true essence of Oaxacan cuisine. The other versions are invented to attract tourists; delicious, but not traditional. You can try them at Comedor María Alejandra (Mercado 20 de Noviembre) or at Sabor Antiguo, a family-run restaurant.
Saturday: Get ready for dancing and eating!
Start your day; it's going to be a long one because the Guelaguetza is celebrated to the fullest, so a good breakfast is essential. A classic of Oaxacan cuisine is tamales, a type of corn dough wrapped and filled with various stews, then steamed. Look for one filled with grasshoppers, chepil (a type of herb), or mole; those will leave you more than energized and ready to keep dancing.
The Mercado de la Merced is the perfect place for you. There are many stalls selling traditional food where you can enjoy a hot tamale. Pair it with a café de olla, hot chocolate, or even better, tejate. This refreshing drink, made from cacao and corn, has many health benefits. A pre-Hispanic beverage, it's a true representative of Oaxacan cuisine. Ask for the pan de yema (egg yolk bread); you'll thank me later.
You'll need to sit down for the meal; La Guelaguetza is a festival with multiple events, so you'll be constantly on the move. After a long walk along cobblestone streets, your knees will start to give out.
Alfonsina, your best option is a restaurant with recipes passed down through generations. It's a backyard kitchen offering home-style, family-friendly food, made with high-quality ingredients that celebrate Mixtec cuisine.
Although it's seasonal food, you could enjoy the classics: mole negro or one of the seven moles of Oaxaca. After this essential stop, you'll have the opportunity to enjoy a typical dessert; nicuatole, a corn gelatin, could be a great alternative.
For dinner, there's nothing better than a mezcal bar, the perfect place to experience a traditional Oaxacan celebration. Mezcal is a spirit made from cooked agave, which is then distilled using a very artisanal process. Sabina Sabe and Los Danzantes are excellent choices for sampling it.
Sunday: Time to recover after the party
For that awful hangover, after so much mezcal and dancing, nothing beats some delicious memelas, smothered in plenty of salsa for breakfast. Fat and masa to banish the hangover. Memelas are a kind of sope, a small, oval-shaped corn tortilla spread with lard, beans, cheese, and lots of salsa. You can't miss Doña Vale's Memelas, one of the most iconic spots in the city.
In the afternoon, to bid farewell to this amazing weekend trip, there's nothing better than heading to the iconic Pasillo de Humo (Smoke Alley) at the Mercado 20 de Noviembre (November 20th Market). Here you can enjoy the classic tasajo, a signature ingredient of Oaxacan cuisine. Grilled to order, tasajo is a very fine cut of beef that is left to dry in the sun.
It's served with "chiles de agua" (a type of chili pepper), onions, and tortillas. At the market, the butchers have their own grills so you can prepare it right after you buy it. A culinary ritual of the city that you must experience.
Oaxaca's gastronomy is vast and incredibly diverse; this is just a small sample of what you can experience. Your culinary journey through this city could last for days, weeks, or even months. A city with unparalleled culinary richness.
To truly enjoy the Guelaguetza and all its delights, you must begin with the state's traditional cuisine. This culinary journey through Oaxaca offers a chance to experience its culture through its flavors. Its history and traditions are alive in every dish and drink, a beautiful reflection of its powerful identity.