Frijoles Peruanos (Peruvian Refried Beans)
The best beans in Mexico are Peruvian, and these frijoles Peruanos—also known as Peruvian refried beans or frijoles Canarios—are proof. My first experience with the prized white beans was at the Latin Grill Masters festival at Conrad Punta de Mita, where they quickly became my best bite of the year.
- 1 lb. dried canary (mayocoba or peruano) beans
- 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more
- 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 8 oz. thick-cut bacon (about 3 slices), cut into ½"-thick pieces
- ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 Tbsp. ground cumin
- 1½ tsp. dried oregano
- 1½ tsp. onion powder
- Place 1 lb. dried canary (mayocoba or peruano) beans in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot and pour in water to cover by 3". Cover pot and soak beans in refrigerator at least 8 hours and up to 1 day.
- Drain beans and return to pot. Pour in fresh water to cover by 3" and add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until beans are tender, 40–55 minutes. Drain beans, reserving 1½ cups bean cooking liquid. Set pot aside.
- Transfer 2 cups beans (leave remaining beans in colander) and reserved bean cooking liquid to a blender. Blend on low speed until smooth. Set purée aside.
- Heat 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil in reserved pot over medium. Add 8 oz. thick-cut bacon (about 3 slices), cut into ½"-thick pieces, and cook, stirring often, until deeply browned and crisp, 5–7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a bowl.
- Add ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter to fat in pot and heat until melted, about 30 seconds. Add 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped, 1 Tbsp. ground cumin, 1½ tsp. dried oregano, and 1½ tsp. onion powder and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add whole beans and reserved bean purée and cook, stirring constantly and smashing whole beans slightly with spoon or a potato masher, until butter is incorporated and beans begin to bubble, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Taste refried beans and season with more salt if needed. Scatter reserved bacon on top.
“. Cover pot and soak beans in refrigerator at least 8 hours and up to 1 day. Step 2Drain beans and return to pot. Pour in fresh water to cover by 3”
In Mexico—especially throughout the state of Jalisco—canary beans are often referred to as mayocoba beans or frijoles peruanos. This variety of Peruvian beans is the key to making these prized frijoles. After the dried beans soak in a generous amount of cold water, they cook on the stovetop in just under an hour, softening into a delightfully creamy texture in no time. The shockingly quick cook time makes them an ideal choice for weeknight cooking and short-notice festivities.
This style of refried beans leans on the tradition of blending some of the beans to get a perfect buttery texture. The mashed beans get a final cooking in bacon fat and are topped with crispy bacon bits, making for a smoky side dish that’s just right for scooping onto tortillas, smearing on tostadas, or eating all on their own.