Masta, la taberna rebelde de Zarautz, que presenta a los chefs revelación de 2026
No son un bar de pintxos, ni una churrasquería, ni un local de comida rápida, que son tan populares en esta hermosa ciudad costera de Gipuzkoa gracias a los surfistas, una parte esencial de la imagen idílica de Zarautz.
They're not a pintxo bar, a steakhouse, or a fast-food joint, which are so popular in this beautiful coastal town of Gipuzkoa thanks to the surfers, an essential part of Zarautz's idyllic image. Perhaps that's why, when Gari Arruabarrena and Javier Ochoa opened Masta back in 2023, the regulars in the area didn't foresee much of a future for them. Luckily, they were wrong.
The proof is that this restaurant with a tavern-like feel is approaching its third anniversary, having established itself as one of the most interesting and refreshing spots in the area, thanks to, as they themselves say, stews and artisanal wines. And if there was any doubt, in addition to the recent Michelin Bib Gourmand, they were also chosen as Revelation Chef at Madrid Fusion.
The checkered tablecloth, the Duralex plates combined with other tableware, and a decor that could easily belong in a txoko (a Basque social club) emphasize this idea of simplicity. It's not an artificial decoration like in some of those trendy "caseros" in Madrid or Barcelona, but rather part of the soul of a tavern where the food and drinks are delicious. It's that simple and beautiful.
Free kitchen
“We don’t have a defined message; we prefer to be free,” the two chefs emphasize, anticipating the inevitable attempts to categorize their work. Arruabarrena and Ochoa have been working together for years, having worked in a long list of kitchens. They crossed paths in some of them, and in 2023 they decided to launch their first project together.
A free cuisine —in the end we fell into the dreaded label— that unfolds in a short and intense menu, one of those in which everything sounds appetizing, marked by the season and what comes from producers with a name and surname.
The menu consists of just a dozen dishes, including a couple of desserts. All are designed for sharing and are reasonably priced. Especially in a place like Zarautz, which isn't and doesn't pretend to be cheap, making the average bill of around 50 euros at this restaurant more than reasonable.
There are already house classics, like their wild boar meatballs, with an addictive richness and intensity, although the idea is to sit down and see what they have to offer. It's a French bistro with a Basque twist, combining tradition and local produce with stews and stocks that are always touted, but not always truly found on the plate. For winter, dishes like a delicate garlic soup with red mullet or cabbage stuffed with Iberian rillettes and a pig's head broth.
Humble dishes revisited with haute cuisine techniques and ideas, but without losing their essence. This is aided by the understated presentations, with just the right elements on each plate and avoiding garnishes that might obscure the ingredients.
artisanal wines
But the equation wouldn't be complete without the third pillar of this young project. Its strength lies in its short time in operation, its distinctive spirit, and the age of its members. For the past year, Judit Ayago has been at the helm of the dining room and wine cellar, determined to forge her own style in a place where it's common to only offer the local txakoli or the usual red wines.
There are no pintxos at the entrance bar, as we mentioned. But this could easily be the perfect spot for this tavern to also function as a wine bar, boasting one of the most interesting wine lists in the area. It's not about competing with the big San Sebastián classics in terms of the number of wines offered, of course, but rather about showcasing a very interesting selection, predominantly from small Basque, Navarrese, and French wineries.
The wine selection will delight wine lovers, always eager to try and discover new things. It alone is another great reason to visit, but it also perfectly aligns with the establishment's philosophy: seemingly simple things, well-made, and reasonably priced.
Whether a restaurant or a tavern, Masta would be just as interesting and recommendable in Barcelona—where this format is very common—or Madrid. Establishing it in a place like Zarautz is particularly commendable and marks an exciting path for a new generation of Basque cuisine.
Address: Azara Kalea, 1, 20800 Zarautz, Gipuzkoa Telephone: 943 03 17 22.