RESTAURANT — In Paris, how chef Romain Bréchignac conceived the menu for the pop-up bistro Plat/Form

At the foot of the François Mitterrand Library, in the 13th arrondissement of Paris, the banks of the Seine are quite steep. For the third season, Plat/Form is taking advantage of this vast pedestrian space by the water to extend its covered canvas and house an artistic program, a bar (called Comptoir canaille) and a restaurant (Le Bistrot de plage), rather well distributed despite the somewhat spartan nature of the place.

Each year, a chef takes the helm at Plat/Form: after Alexandre Marchon and then Chloé Charles, Romain Bréchignac will be in charge from April 29th to the end of September 2026. “We wanted to bring the Parisian bistro experience to the quays, but with a touch of vacation, as if we were on a beach. I was able to imagine the kind of food I would have enjoyed on a deckchair,” smiles the chef, whose experience includes stints at the Royal Monceau, Rostang, Le Meurice, the Amour hotels, and the Negresco. All this while catering to the specific tastes of Parisian clientele.

Thus, the food menu is composed equally of meat, fish, and vegan dishes. “For the past five years, we’ve really felt a surge in demand for vegan dishes. It shouldn’t be a punishment”: the Vege Bun (€19!) embodies this approach (roasted sweet potato, hot sauce, tahini, fries), as do the delicious green gnocchi (peas, fresh goat cheese, lemon balm, €20). We appreciate their very mild and vegetal character, which contrasts with the traditional version.

Unexpected proposals

Another challenge: adapting to the neighborhood, with a weekly menu (Monday to Friday at lunchtime) to attract customers from the surrounding offices, priced at €21 for a starter and main course or main course and dessert. The menu is clearly designed for a high-volume, temporary establishment with a festive atmosphere. While popular, seaside favorites remain (mussels and fries, shrimp), they are enhanced by technical or unexpected ingredients (bottarga, sumac, za'atar, anchovy paste, truffle and caviar options).

The dishes, meanwhile, are adapted to the expected heatwave (if it ever arrives): seafood, which is a big hit when the weather is kind, roasted octopus served on skewers, and especially a beach sundae. Yes, the kind you'd enjoy on a sun lounger, but "monstrously indulgent," with homemade ice cream, chocolate ganache (well hidden), and homemade praline. This leads to a guilty pleasure: the Coupe Bréchi (€10), served in a small bowl in the restaurant or in a pot to take away.

Some offerings are more daring, such as the veal tartare reimagined in a Caesar salad, breaking the mold of these two bistronomy icons (€14), or, especially, the pastrami burger created in collaboration with Willy's Deli (pastrami, cashew butter, pickles, fries, €21), of which not a single crumb was left. “It’s not easy to eat well on the quays, hence the idea of ​​rethinking the menu,” continues Romain Bréchignac. Some starters are available to take away, at the counter – this is one of the first adjustments made.

Reimagined cocktails

On the cocktail front, the classics are complemented by house versions, such as the Old Fashioned Plat/Form (€12), made with bourbon and a homemade chai syrup (cinnamon, star anise, crushed peppercorns), which gives it a very smooth aroma, a hint of spice, and makes it more approachable than the traditional, drier recipe. The same goes for the Bloody Maria (mezcal, passata, harissa, homemade pepper syrup). The offerings are designed to encourage sharing, with 1.5-liter pitchers of signature cocktails starting at €60. A wide selection of natural wines is also available.

“Working on an ephemeral basis prevents boredom. We try to give our best when we know there is an end,” adds Romain Bréchignac, who is also counting on welcoming international chefs or organizing Sunday barbecues to boost the season.