Maxime Chevardé reabre el Relais de la Poste en Nâves-Parmelan
In Nâves-Parmelan, in Haute-Savoie, the historic Relais de la Poste reopens with Maxime Chevardé at the helm of the kitchen, with dishes worthy of a certified menu.
Behind its post office counter, where the stamp machine and postcards sit alongside the menu, the restaurant delivers dishes at the standard postal rate in a charmingly eclectic setting. The chef, formerly Daniel Baratier's sous-chef at L'Auberge sur les Bois, has moved to the hills of Annecy to showcase his own cuisine, both refined and delicious. He is joined by Sylvie Boitard, who works in both the kitchen and dining room.
One night, Jules Chazal acted as a postman: with his open smile, he went delivering the orders from table to table.
The menu starts with some magnificent roasted asparagus, hidden under a hollandaise sauce whipped with Kalamata olive oil and enhanced with wild garlic kimchi from the meadow below.
Next comes a roasted rooster to share, moistened with a creamy yellow wine sauce streaked with rich poultry jus, and accompanied by candied fennel. For dessert, rhubarb is melted with a mascarpone whipped cream infused with elderflowers and topped with almond streusel.
For drinks, there's a clear and sensible menu, complemented by a selection curated in collaboration with the wine merchant Aux Caves du Château in Faverges. Wines include Chasse au Dahu, a white from Maxime Dancoine and Guillaume Lavie (€6 a glass), and Ceux d'Ailleurs, a red from Francis Rousset (€39 a bottle). There are also classic cocktails (€8-11), homemade lemonade (€3), and a non-alcoholic IPA from Mont Salève (€6 for 33 cl).
Prices are: set menus of €24 at lunchtime and €38 in the evening; fish and meat dishes to share, from €42 to €58; and a children's menu of €16 (main course, dessert and drink).