Café du Coin, Florent Ciccoli's bistro in Paris

Restaurateur Florent Ciccoli, behind Jones, Le Bien Venu and Cheval d'Or, has taken care of every detail of this bistro: Belle Époque tiles, Formica tables, a copper bar and wooden stools.

During the visit, the menu skipped the mini pizzas, which are offered with mozzarella, parmesan and harissa, or with sausage, spinach, Roscoff onion and fennel, to go straight to the small plates.

Among them are grilled Padrón peppers with Datterini tomatoes, topped with raw albacore tuna, eel cream and za'atar, and dauphine potatoes on a bed of horseradish cream with trout roe.

The cheese board included an excellent brillat-savarin. Lunch offered cod fritters; sausage, potatoes, and swede in beurre blanc sauce; and a fig tart. Desserts included a fig leaf crème brûlée and a chocolate ganache with fresh cheese ice cream.

The natural wine cellar includes a Chenin del Loire (€7 a glass), a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine del Domaine de l'Ecu (€27 a bottle) and a tinto Gaillac de Plageoles (€28 a bottle).

The weekday lunch menu costs between €18 and €20, small pizzas between €6 and €8, and small plates between €6 and €10.