À la Renaissance, a century-old Parisian bistro that returns with a new look

Carina Soto Velásquez and Joshua Fontaine, of Candelaria and Le Mary Celeste, have preserved this bistro's signature red neon crown and infinity mirrors. They've added a new mural, gleaming tables, and an elegant marble bar.

Chef Min Wou Choi, formerly at the now-closed Saturne and Le Dauphin, creates dishes inspired by the era: artichoke with pepper vinaigrette, sauteed porcini mushrooms and a pink Iberian pork loin with a bright sauce, accompanied by tender roasted onions and wilted chard.

For dessert, a classic, chewy floating island on a generous custard. There's also a vol-au-vent with seasonal vegetables (carrots, mushrooms, turnips), tempting but somewhat small.

Lunch features a buffet of cold starters (beetroot in vinaigrette, lemon tabbouleh, and mixed vegetables), Guinness beef, and Basque cheesecake. Breakfast includes open-faced sandwiches or a savory dish with Prince of Paris ham, egg, and Comté cheese. Throughout the day, snacks such as piquillo peppers in garlic sauce, fuet sausage, and prawn cocktail are served on paper tablecloths.

The drinks menu features natural wines, such as an Aude Cyprès de toi from Domaine Fond Cyprès (€7 per glass), a Rhone Ugni Blanc Le Clau from Romain Le Bars (€44 per bottle), and a Jura red blend, Se Kwa Sa?, from Domaine Buronfosse (€52). There's also a mini-Dry Martini (€8 for 4 cl), a Guinness (€9 for 50 cl), and digestifs, including an 18-year-old Jura pomace brandy from Tissot (€13 for 4 cl) and an Armagnac from Domaine d'Aurensan (€15).

The set lunch menu costs €23, the à la carte menu costs €35 to €55, and breakfast and snacks cost €5 to €12.