Le Grand Couvert in Iguerande, traditional cuisine in the Troisgros style

Léo Troisgros, 28, is Michel's son and has worked at La Grenouillère, Berlin, and Tokyo. You can dine in the stunning stable, renovated by Patrick Bouchain, with its high ceilings, monumental fireplace, and crystal chandeliers, or on the terrace overlooking the Brionne countryside.

The menu begins with a traditional "welcome soup": a smooth, chilled velouté of fennel with cumin, lemon, and almonds. Next come grilled snails with homemade preserved porcini mushrooms, which were a bit bland.

The beef kidneys were perfect, with potatoes, capers and a sage sabayon.

For dessert, a voluptuous baba au rhum, bathed in a vodka syrup and served with a lemon and currant cream and a caramelized crisp.

The wines are selected by Lisa Roche, restaurant manager and chef's partner, and Christian Vermorel, Troisgros' sous chef. There is a white of Maranges de Chevrot et Fils (9 € the glass), a natural tinto of Saboya de Giachino (6 €), a Côte-Roannaise del Domaine Sérol (27 € the bottle), a blanco of the Rhone de Jamet (40 €) and a Savigny-lès-Beaune del Domaine-Beut (80 €).

The à la carte menu costs €46 and the children's menu costs €26.