The former sous-chef of Le Servan opens Chantoiseau, a cozy spot in Paris

Nicolas Durand, former sous-chef to Tatiana Levha at Le Servan, has moved north to open Chantoiseau, a welcoming restaurant with Servan-esque touches: a handsome zinc bar, clean lines, and molded crystal chandeliers. He's backed by his brother Julien, formerly of Gagnaire. Just six nights later, the cuisine is already proving its worth.

Among the dishes sampled was an elegant medley of mussels, cockles, and rope-farmed clams, with an incredible pine vinegar. The fattened chicken from the Perche region was prepared as a blanquette, with enoki mushrooms, baby turnips, and a creamy chicken jus, though it lacked a bit of contrast and the team is still fine-tuning it. Also noteworthy was the artisanal sea bass, cooked to perfection with kale, seaweed, and rice moistened by a fascinating lemongrass fish fumet.

The dessert is a slightly bitter citrus tart, sweetened with a delicate guava sorbet. The friendly service from Julia Soto, Julien's partner, completes the visit.

The wine list is extensive: a Pinot Noir from Burgundy by Fanny Sabre (€8 a glass), a Chardonnay from the Jura by Maison Overnoy (€42 a bottle), a Cabernet-Franc from the Loire by François Saint-Lô (€45) and other natural wines such as Athénaïs de Béru, Domaine des Accoles or Domaine de la Pinte.

Prices: set menus from €24 to €28 (weekday lunch) and à la carte from €44 to €66 (dinner).