How to overcome your fear of liquor in the kitchen and dining room
According to expert Canessa, inexperience hinders the use of liquors in the kitchen and in the dining room, and the main obstacle is cultural.
In the kitchen, there's a desire to experiment. "This will foster awareness," explains Canessa, "because inexperience can't speak the same language as knowledge." Chefs want to use spirits in dishes, where they function as seasonings, contribute a unique aromatic component, and can become a distinctive element. However, full awareness is lacking because there isn't yet enough experience.
In the dining room, the situation is different: "There's a sense of apprehension," explains the expert, "stemming from inexperience and an often inaccurate perception of price. Drinks aren't offered diluted or in small portions, so it feels impersonal. We're still in a very early stage."
To encourage the more timid, Canessa sums it up humorously: “Go behind the counters, open the liquor cabinets, turn the bottles upside down while you dust them, and read the labels. Awaken their curiosity.” Many people own cognacs with acronyms like VSOP or XO without knowing what they mean. “Behind each bottle lies a world of stories and pairings. You have to uncork it and taste what’s inside, because many people don’t have direct experience with tasting.”
The main obstacle is cultural: the word "liqueurs." "It's an outdated term," says Canessa, "because liqueurs should be judged without prejudice. It all depends on the quantity and the dilution. Once you overcome the fear, you discover flavors that deserve a place on the menu."
Canessa admits with a mischievous grin that "these days, many people don't know how to eat," and that the public relies on communication and reputation. "But if I offer something that delivers on the promise of a unique experience, I win. A good liqueur or a perfect cocktail, paired with an exquisite dish, can make all the difference."
Whisky is the most well-known spirit, and it makes it easy to explain the difference between blended and single malt whiskies. However, in an ideal world, one should start with fruit liqueurs: smelling a pear liqueur and rediscovering its essence is a fascinating experience. Rum is a polyphonic universe: in certain flavors, Jamaica evokes the island of Islay, while Barbados and Martinique have an elegance comparable to that of Speyside whisky. Fully understanding it requires knowledge and training in hospitality schools.
Italy boasts extraordinary excellence, but also products that risk damaging the category's reputation. Grappa suffers the consequences of its tradition of being drunk neat and used as a quick digestif. "Let's change our perspective," urges Canessa, "an excellent liqueur can transform the experience."
The often-maligned sgroppino can be transformed into a memorable dessert with quality ingredients: select rums, artisanal sorbets, and meticulous techniques. At Lucio in Rimini, they serve one with Hampden Estate 1753 and cocoa paste sorbet. “If a crisis arises,” Canessa concludes, “we stop offering the ‘last drop’ for free and focus on quality, from the coffee to the after-dinner cocktail. We need someone who can explain and support the pairings: that way, the customer enjoys it, and the offering becomes sustainable.”
